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Please explain. Are you getting at how the egr inlet at the manifold is closest to the #6 runner and if malfunctioning, #6 will suck up a higher proportion of exhaust gas? I'm curious at what pressure the ex gas enters the manifold, because that would have an obvious affect on cyl distribution

How many miles does it take for that 1.5qt to blow out? On my stock 125k mi stock motor (with leaking valvestem seals and shot rings) I would do a 1qt every 3500-4000mi. When I first bought the car w/ 68k, it was less than .5qt every 3-4k. On the new motor, its different, but that is a whole...

If you 'look' around a little, you can find a set of ferrea's cheaper than that...

isnms- How many miles were on the plugs? How do you drive the thing (pedal to the floor, stop and go, mostly freeway, etc)? Do you consistently use the same gas? Any fuel additives? All of these things will effect the carbon build up on the plugs. Taking a blind stab without knowing any...

While I can't say for sure, since I have never done a meteorology test on either of them (only held them in my hands) I can say this: - The ferrea stainless are significantly lighter (didn't gram scale them, sorry). - Ferrea's are dished face, nippon are flat - this will affect CC volume as...

how wide is it? pending the kickout width (assuming they are the same 'depth' (front to rear) as the stock sump) you might have issues with subframe clearance (because of the slight curve rearward in the subframe). Just something to be aware of.

That is the route I figured I would take if I couldn't manage to do it on the car. I did make a notched pipe tool with a pvc guide ring (to not scratch the lifter bore), but like you said, keeping an even, constant tension while trying to put the locks around the stem is anything but easy...

Is there a trick or 'special' procedure for reassembling the the spring/keeper/lock while the head is in the car? I can remove the spring assembly no problem, but the challenge (that I can't figure out) is how to get the locks back on the stem without using one of those c-clamp style valve...

temp can range anywhere from 160-200f on a 'hot' start IAT 80-120(highest I've seen)

I guess my question would be then, why the change between hot/cold starts? Or why no transition from 0v (when cold) to something when warm, yet when a hot restart occurs, there is activity... to take that a step further, did you run into this issue using the PTT feature of the pro?....

Don't pack your shit. You hit the nail right on the head - I'm dealing with the exact same issue. There is a part of the equation that it sounds like we are missing (a constraint that needs to be satisfied that is not happening) but I cannot seem to find an answer between the TSRM, electrical...

yep, ox disconnected the whole time

What are the constraints (sensor requirements) for open/closed loop operation? My understanding is: closed loop: efi temp switch: >176deg tps: under 70% O2: functioning (in the sense that it works or not) else? I'm sure there is more open: more or less same as above except...

PM him. Derek is a busy but very honest guy. He might not get back to you in 15min, but he will get back to you. At least that was my experience with him.

So I have my LC-1 simulating the NB output for the TCCS. This works - but only sometimes. When I do a cold start (wait for WB to heat up, then start car) VF reads 0 (0.01v) the entire key cycle (5min - 40min, doesn't matter). If I start the car (after its been at op temp), then the TCCS shows a...

I was indicating those cars (mine included) that are dedicated street cars with things like A/C, stock seats (front and rear, of course) and sound deadening material...etc Race prepped cars are a whole other thing....:icon_bigg

I've been following your discussions over on SF and have pointed quite a few to that area. I would like to follow suit one day - even though the a70 is a fat pig, with a little work its still a great handling (and riding) car. Thanks for sharing.

really....maybe you should let me know when your ready to get rid of one...

Couple questions: On my LC1, I have the second analog output feeding the ECU. I had been doing some tuning, cross referencing between the WB output and VF. I changed the powersource to the LC1 (fused, and gets power from an empty spot in the driver fuse box). Now the VF readings aren't...

As I need to. Greg puts such a damn big lip on the IC pipes that the clamps I have are going to break before the pipes pop out (they are the smooth underside worm clamps). I'll prob change all the topside to t-bolt so they look the same. All in due time...