The reading of your crank sensor is fine, the 95 TSRM says the reading should be:
Resistance:
Cold
NIPPONDENSO
835–1,400
AISAN
985–1,600
Hot
NIPPONDENSO
1,060–1,645
AISAN
1,265–1,890
The 90919-05006 crank sensor is the one (according to the parts breakdown) the one...
What turbo? I am thinking of oil cooled only when I go single because mine overflows when boosting a lot with the stock twins but temps here are 40 °C plus and I was planning on adding an oil cooler when the pea shooters come off.
I would be curious though how much having hot oil adds to an...
If your turbo is water cooled then that would put a lot of heat in the cooling system when running extended boost. The stock cooling system might not be able to keep up with that.
7M and 1J are not the same but 1J and 2J are so get for a 2J. There is also a pintle ring insulator at the very base of the injector and I am not running them on mine with no problems. the numbers are 23291-75010 for the pintle insulator and 23291-76010 for the base insulator.
Did you look at the rail where it meets the intake manifold and verify the rail cushions are all there? Just get a strong flashlight and check them. If they are there then I would rule out the rail as the two o rings on the injector would be leaking fuel if any were bad.
Bottom right is EFI fuse and its 15 amps.
Lights flickering could be a short circuit so you should check your battery cables large and small for any rubbing or worn insulation touching bare metal and if you had the wrong rated fuse in the EFI slot, I would put a correct one in there and also...
The bottom of the fuel rail itself has a big rubber seal where it seats to the head. It is possible that the rail was installed without one or two. The O rings that are on the injector are so the fuel doesn't leak from the rail, they are side feed so there is an O ring above and below the feed...
Injector O rings are a possibility. You can pull the rail and check the big ones on the base, if they are missing or cracked they can suck in air and run lean on that cylinder
I had a similar condition years ago on a 7MGE where it had twisted O rings and was running codes 24 and 25 rich and...
I am just going to inatall the bilstein HD shocks with a moog bumper/bellows kit and not try to mod them otherwise. The bump stops will keep them from blowing when I fly over a speed bump too fast.
Yeah I looked it up. its an Imperial Fan Clutch - 6" Import/Compact Part No. 215071 and is apparently designed differently than a standard 2j clutch because the center heat sink area will support the smaller 7M fan.
How stiff is it when you manually spin it hard?
You can get more silicone from the dealer by the ounce, open the fan clutch and squeeze the bottle in. I have 3 extra bottles in mine and my car still overheats when I use the a/c.
The 7M fan blades don't fit the 2J fan clutches. The fan mount diameter is over an inch larger on the 2J fan clutch so the hole is to large for the 7M fan to fit around, unless there is an aftermarket clutch with a smaller fan mount diameter for the 2j.
Better read the warranty. My left bilstein blew and of course its considered normal wear and tear by their "Limited warranty" which usually only covers manufacturers defects like it the rod comes out or something. You would have to get it done at a shop probably to get their lifetime warranty...
I don't think a bacon press would work here.
There might be rust inside the trim, its a good water trap. I threw my old trim away and got some good pieces from the junkyard and used 3M double sided tape to stick it on.
I would get the truck and take time on the Supra. I have a 1972 K/5 Blazer that has been in my family since new, love driving it in the winter, especially to different ski resorts. This December the 350 is getting rebuilt when I am on vacation. Gas mileage sux though.
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