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keep the stock seats and restore them... the supra seats are some of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in hands down

Is the car out of allignment?

and Al http://www.suprasport.com/LIPP-Intercooler-Block-Off-Plate_p_535.html http://www.suprastore.com/19tosumk3sti.html

Here is one in CF http://www.c7carbon.com/toyota-supra-mk3-ma70-radiator-plate-135

http://www.c7carbon.com/toyota-supra-mk3-front-lip-fiberglass-250 I am thinking about getting one of these since my OEM lip is all wavy...I figure I can use the OEM mounting hardware with this lip... Anyone try this one? how's the fit? Pics? Was it painted when you got it? Any input...

Making SIV 2014 my goal for next year!

You need to adjust the throttle stop position first. Then you need to adjust the dashpot. then finally you can adjust the TPS

Make sure you follow the correct order...I think it is throttle stop, dash pot, then TPS...

Yea $9,450 is way high for that car. Congrats to the seller though...

Ebay allows you to set a max bid and then it will auto bid in increments for you if someone else comes in and places a bid... so e***c bid 2300 and set his max bid somewhere between 5023 and 5323...then 7***o bid 2350 and was immediately out bid so they bid 2600, 2888, 3000, etc...until they...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stunning-Original-CA-Survivor-MK-3-Mark-III-Third-3rd-Generation-No-Reserve-/130993076672?afsrc=1&forcev4exp=true

Wowzers!! Member for more than 3 years and this is your first post! I am a 7M fan so I say go with the 7M, and you should be able to get to 350hp without a standalone...just a piggyback.

Have you checked that none of your IC couplers are popped or loose?

my initial thought was not enough fuel but you said you AFR is ok in boost. So now I am thinking ignition... check your timing again maybe?

and no CEL when it starts to fall off ?

Fronts bolts are: 48190-14020 x2 48190-14030 x2 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=4802&P=1 Rear bolts are: 48190-14010 x4 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=4804&P=1

Id start with the knock sensor rewire and see what other (if any) codes remain...

You have both knock sensors rewired? or the 1 sensor wired into both ECU ports? Doesnt make sense that a faulty AFM wouldnt throw a code... You put 15k into your car and you are still having stupid issues like knock sensor codes and out of spec AFMs? wowzers...what did you put all the money...

FWIW I have mine insured for $8000 through American Collectors Insurance for $439 a year...and that includes a $220 "Inexperienced Operator" surcharge since I am under 25... You can check classic car values here: http://www.nadaguides.com/Classic-Cars/Manufacturers

Something broke...that's what happened If you don't have any money to fix it then just park it and forget about it (well maybe part it out first)...Even if we could tell you what happened you don't have the funds to fix it so it's pointless for us to try to weed through this troll and help you.