Adding a crank scraper is something else to do to further reduce this risk. The main purpose of a crank scraper is to reduce windage in the crank case.
No, that's shimming the spring inside of the oil pump.
We're talking about shimmin the oil pickup down further towards the bottom of the oil pan to reduce the risk of the pump running dry during a hard corner or braking situation ;).
I'm off tuesday, I've been off sat.-tuesdays this week already.
I'm worthless at work when i come back from a long leave.
Got a new oil cap for my 3g to stop the oil from seeping out under the stocker.
Can't wait for my Hogue grip for my P95 to come in the mail.
But the metal is "strong" ;)
Honestly, I've never used them, and many on here use them and are laying down more power and boost than me and haven't had any issues out of them that I've heard of...
More air/fuel in the mixture= more power. The engine will make more power if it can ingest more fuel and air. Wether doing both at the same time, or doing just one or the other at a time is more economical, has yet to be proven. ;)
You need to cap off that old port going into the 3000 pipe where the old bpv was, cap off the port where it dumped back into the accordian hose too for the time being until you get a recirculation fitting for the bpv.
With vacuum applied to the BOV from the same source as it was from the...
935 sells a muffler for what you need, I've even heard them on 4 banger domestics around here, a lot better sounding than the other fart cans most of them use around here, nice and mellow sounding.
Another LA term eh Jay? ;)
I used autolites with NGK wires and experienced the arching mentioned earlier by John.
Switched to NGK coppers stock heat range, problem solved.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.