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Yes...cut the coolant hose. Replace ALL hoses when re-assembling. Fuel rail off first was easier pulling head, for me.

Everything you want to know about tires http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/home.do;jsessionid=CyhlRMHygTTVGhXZpPDCKJJlfg1hh2ffPVYsLpvFTC4kjvmdqy9v!-1117366554!NONE http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoHome.dos

You probably have to go to a 'Test Only' shop. I would call around and find one that offers a free 're-test' if you fail. That way you can run the test, then have 30 days to fix it to pass, and get it tested again free. Those first test #s will tell alot about what you will need to do...

I used to be a Matco Dealer. They have some great stuff. Better prices than Mac or Snap-on. The Craftsman 'Proline' tools are made at same factory as Matco wrenches. They are cheaper, but just as good. I will sit here and think about my tools for you. Just about any air tools will...

I've read many times and places that the N/A Intake cam will do the trick.

There is only about 7-10 psi in the tranny oil cooler lines. But the cooler in the radiator is metal, and can easily handle 100+psi. You engine psi will not damage it. You just have to use good lines. Most pickup trucks (2500 Chevy & GMs for sure) run lines to an oil cooler in the...

Yes, but those race cars have $1000s spent on mapping out the correct temps for the tracks, and weather conditions on race day. And they are hauling ass all the time, so air flow is always up. I was reading about Nascar cooling systems. This is interesting...

I believe you mean the 'dust cover boot' on the steering rack. The only way to fix the leak is to replace the steering rack with a remanufactured one. About $200. Not very dificult to do it yourself.

As was stated above, the thermo temp is the 'start opening' temp. It gets the engine up to a min. temp. You need it to keep the oil temp regulated too. Too cool an engine is not good. I do believe (read in some spec mag) the engine's computer will go into 'closed-loop' operation at 160*...

I got mine from Toyota for about $13. It has that bend, and is kinda big, and I could not find any at the parts store that was oil resistant.

Well, after several emails and phone talk with their thech guys, they recommended inside the car to keep it cool. NOT under the hood. I was able to easily place it under the dash, at the firewall, above the clutch pedal area.

Yea, why so much?? If the knock sensor hears pinging, it will tell the ECU, thus retarding the timing anyway. I run 15*, using 89 gas in summer, and 87 in winter. NO troubles.

I've run Autolite Platinum in every vehicle for several years and NEVER had one fail. That's all we use at the shop. NGK Platinum would be my 2nd choice.

They've been racing longer than any one on this forum, and have spent $$millions.

Check my write up on SF about a bushing gone bad. This one will cause your type of tire wear. http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/showthread.php?t=1973

Tranny Cable at throttle?? Is it adjusted properly??

Well, usually if the clutch is engaging, and the belt smokes, then the compressor is seized.

It works by vacuum, and is controlled by the ECU. Its not variable. Its full on or full off. It changes the air flow, which is done by lengthening or shotening the intake runner. Many companies use this method (altho different setups) to adjust and modify engine torque. Smoe do it to...

A 'seized' crank pulley makes no sense. A seized pulley could only seize to the crankshaft, thus the problem you described would be impossible. What is possible is that the crank pulley was not turning. The key that aligns it to the crankshaft may have broken. If it otherwise looks like...

Is there a relay?? I'm not gonna check the tsrm for you. But....maybe if there is one, the current flow to/thru it is bad, and it takes a while to operate. Vacuum to the cruise control tank??