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It would be easy enough to add another on the down pipe since you are ditching the stock ecu. I would block off the narrow band but leave it unused on the y pipe in case I had to revert back to stock ecu.

You going to machine the cast iron y pipe to a wide band bung? Just use the one on the downpipe and block off the narrow band.

The junkyards are full of 1uz's. I'm on vacation now and have seen 3 mkiii's between phoenix to San Jose yards but saw prolly 50 LS400's and SC400's. Didn't see any Supras at all on the road. 92 93 and 94 looks like the years for that number.

I have had 2 different 1JZ's and both would idle lower in open loop. I have recently switched to 2j 550's and it runs in the 13 afr range when warm and open loop brings it back under control when driving. Warm up idle is still low in the 550-600 range when cold though. I have an old mercedes...

2000 is ridiculously high when cold. You should check the wires to the iacv end to end to ensure the wiring is correct. Also you can remove it up to verify it is put together right.

Mine runs at around 500 rpm and it slowly creeps up to 800 when it is warmed up. Have you cleaned your IACV yet? 2000 is extremly high. Did it ever idle lower and then climb as it warmed up?

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1991_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA70-BLMZZ_1603.html http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1991_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA70-BLMZZ_1701.html That will get you started.

http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9331 NGK 3764 or BKR6EIX-11

That part number is for the 7M engine, it is slightly different than the 2J plug in the gap and Overall Height. As it is slightly longer you might have fitment issues under the coil pack, it does have a closer gap though.

http://www.ngk.com/Automotive-NGK-c1411.aspx Any 2J plug will work. Coppers are fine and cheaper than iridium but you will have to change them more often. Gap should be about .028 inches or .7mm for copper. Iridium's are delicate so it is Not advisable to try and set them, just checking the gap...

From Tial's website: http://www.tialsport.com/index.php/tial-products/wastegates/39-mvr specs are at the bottom for flange size. basically the input flange is over 47 mm and the outlet (dump tube) flange is a little over 44 mm.

If it is bubbling over the pump is probably shot.

The regulator is also on the rail, anyway its fixed so now you can enjoy the car after you break in the motor.

Are you using a Fluke or other digital multimeter or analog with adjustable 0? Reason I am asking is because the two voltages you mentioned are both low. What does the meter read when you test the battery for example both statically and running? The pump resistor has heat sinks so it does get...

The voltage should be 9 at idle and switch to 12 in the 2000+rpm range iirc so yours is way low. You should test the relay operation and read out the fuel pump resistor on the passenger fender by doing this. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=114 This probably...

That wire looks like it goes to the O2 sensor. It wouldn't cause your problem. I would recommend doing a end to end check from the ecu to all the components wire by wire for continuity and shorts to ground. For the fuel, get under the car and inspect the fuel line from out of the tank to the...

You bought the car in that running condition? Before any more damage occurs the engine will have to come out and everything checked, head gasket changed, crankshaft and rods looked at etc. I am not sure if a reputable machine shop would work on a hybrid motor though so you might need to just go...

Do you still have the fuel pressure drop with the Walbro?

Check all vac lines for connections and splits and cracks.

The line coming out of the fuel tank could be bent causing a restriction. A simple comprression test could reveal a problem with the build I.e.valves out of whack from timing being off or not having corrrect clearences. Normally you have to seat the rings on a new rebuild but you havn't...