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Have you tried the triangular piece that blocks the wind at the mirror disconnect? The ones I have found in the junkyards usually have the posts broken off.

Try this tape. https://www.amazon.com/Rescue-Tape-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Rectangular/dp/B00AZOK55G It is what we use in the military for aircraft wiring repair. It stretches and sticks to itself and has a good heat range. Not really cheap though but you don't get any stickiness like you do with...

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/47216384/1JZ-GTE%20JZZ30%20Soarer%20Engine%20Wiring#JZZ30ToyotaSoarer1JZGTEEngineECUPinout The Soarer used a CA2 and CA1 plug instead of the EA2 plug for the wires you need. that link shows it as an 8 pin and 3 pin plug and if you have the plug on your harness...

Just wire it up with this diagram. You can ignore F-2 if your not staying with the hyd fan.

A-to-the-J sold the kit. I got it but havn't installed it yet.

Did you try running without the MAFT Pro to see if the car runs o.k. when wired stock? 550's though? Have you tried running a Lexus AFM without the MAFT? You might read this too but this info is for the stock system. http://alflash.com.ua/vf1.htm

Supra and Cressida were the only ones from Europe with the 7M. Cross reference also shows Crown, Soarer Mark II and Chaser from Japan. You will need to get it from a 7M.

I could really go for a much beefier undercover that also has reinforced holes. I'm sure others would also be interested in one.

I would say no on the rubbing. Every time your engine shifts it will rub and scrape the cross member. I put the 2J mounts in my 1J swap after trying 89+ mounts, aftermarket mounts from revshift (worthless silicone mounts couldn't handle the weight) to the 2J mounts and it sits great and doesn't...

rockauto has universal hood liner but you would have to trim it yourself.

If you still have the original condenser I would recommend getting a parallel flow installed. I had one installed here in Kuwait and it got rid of my overheating problems and blows cold. The tech mounted a universal one.

^^^What ha said ^^^^ A machine shop will also be responsible for properly breaking in the new cams. If you did the cams yourself and didn't do this your cam lobes would be shot in short order.

You can also call Aaron at driftmotion.com as he sells the unit.

The JDM engines use those type is Inlet air temperature sensors with a Map sensor. My 1JZ has an older style metallic one that mounts on the intake but the newer plastic ones can mount on the rubber pieces. some corollas from the USA use it too. Here is a cross reference for that part from...

My tweaked harness for 1JZ had that plug on the chassis side as the check engine jumper plug as the regular check engine plug in the engine compartment was not on the harness. You just jumper it to get codes.

You mean this? http://www.driftmotion.com/R154-Speedo-Gear-Assembly-p/dm1685.htm

This site has info for 87 and 90 manuals. http://www.turboninjas.com/mk3supra/

Check B+ on the check engine plug or follow this chart. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=3 The flapper on the AFM could be stuck which would stop the fuel pump from working too but the I don't think the cold start injector would have pressure. I won't even ask...

You have to get a multimeter and use the wiring diagrams to trace the short. Does it happen without trying to start the car?

http://www.turboninjas.com/mk3supra/ You can get the wiring diagrams for earlier model MKIII's there from the 1987 repair manual. The AM2 circuit goes to the efi and ign fuses. Ign fuse is through the ignition switch. When does the fuse blow?