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Amazon has two in stock but not on prime and the sellers won't use USPS so I would have to get it shipped twice to my APO address. Carid showed it is in stock so I ordered it from them. I will keep my core though, $30 since I can't send it back.

Thanks for that info. The rebuilt one from Centric sounds like the way to go. The Toyota rebuild kit costs more than the rebuilt from Centric.

Well that sucks. I just lost power brakes, (hissing under dash) and the only booster I can find on Amazon is A1-Cardone.

Did you look at this write up? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?111721-The-TEMS-System-and-HKS-EAC-T-Bible Also the TEMS computer is in the back panel in the hatch area on the right. http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=25

What AFR are you hitting when it cuts? What ECU are you running? Are the 550's being run with a Lexus AFM? Are you getting any codes? Have you tried stock injectors and stock boost?

Make sure that the wires aren't shorted together before you replace it and yes you need it to start.

That is your EFI resistor which is on the TCCS schematic and also goes to the same circuit.

Troubleshoot your IG2 circuit. Could be the EFI resistor or the igniter or a coil. You can start by disconnecting them both and seeing if a short still exists. If so then probably a shorted wire or noise filter pin 1 side.

did you verify the vacuum is ok to the MAP sensor? Also do a pin to pin check from the ECU to the MAP. It sounds like the MAP input isn't working.

Flanges might be bent or warped too. You could get a shop to look at it if a gasket doesn't work.

I push down on the belt to create more tension on the pulley to remove the bolts.

Here ya go http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/xref?s=81980-16010&mG=on

Did you have the machine shop measure the amount left on the head and block? 1mm seems a little thin compared to an oem gasket that is 1.37. It probably wouldn't affect your issue as the tensioner would take up the slack but it could cause other issues. You will get more compression of course...

When I had a code 13, the crank and cam sensors were off by a tooth after one rotation of the crank sahft so it looked damn close when they were tdc. Idled good but broke uo above 3000 in boost. This was after a timing bet change by the local mechanics. If you haven't messed with the timing belt...

Check the fuel pump resistor on the right fender well. If the pins are recessed or it isn't plugged it will cause this. Also check for power to it from the circuit opening relay. Also make sure you have power on B and B+ on the ecu and you can check power on B+ on your check engine connector...

Don't forget the valve clearances. Toyota uses shims in buckets, there are no adjusting these except by putting a different shim thickness in. They can be a pita to mess with so make sure the machine shop has experience on this. If you do it yourself you will need a micrometer and a tool to...

A good AC shop should be able to install a generic parallel flow and fab some brackets if you want to go R-154.

Start at the ECU plugs and trace it back from there.

You wire the CA2 pin 8 to your C1 plug pin 2 for your Mrel and that will take care of the fuel pump. its the Black with Orange stripe wire.

Codes?