no no i just meant if you are going from stock torque, to ARP specs, i wouldnt just pick the first bolt, break it, and torque directly to 80.
id torque it to 65 ish, do all the others, then to back to the first one, raise it to 75, etc.
id do it gradually
idk about you, but if it was me. id gradually torque them down more, like 60, 68, 75, 80
just because to me, having one bolt at 80 on an old gasket.. is too big of a dif for me lol. id take my time and do it gradually
but thats just me :P
ATF? wtf the only thing Iv ever heard of is putting it into your cylinders if a motor has been sitting a hell of a long time and you think the rings might be rusted. If you leave in in for a week it'll seep down through the rings and make the startup alot better.
Shit, if you want to clean...
Well if you have some time on your hands, and tools, or friends with tools, this is a very easy swap..
Even if you dont feel you have the know how to time it, set stuff, etc, at least getting it put in and everything saves you $$$$$$$$ on labor.
When starting it, let it idle and warm up, dont rev it.
Thats standard knowledge :) Piston slap isnt "normal", but it happens. You should be fine if you let it warm up correctly
You dont NEED to run a MHG. A composite with ARP studs and correct torque will and can work on a GTE up to 14-16 pounds of boost.
If its an NA, then i think the composite would be fine :)
Pull the head, get it machined, mic your block, but you shouldnt have to lap it. Replace the valve...
i think you are fine running the turbo w/o cooling, im pretty sure ppl run high hp and are fine. do a search though.
you can do a re-wire to make it run off of 1 knock sensor as well
btw, as far as i know (and IJ told me this) they ports are their. you might have to dill and tap a few, but they are def their.
and if i remember correctly, you dont HAVE to run coolant to the turbo.
and mdcmotorsports sells the lines you need w/ the correct threads i believe. its a kit...
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