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Well, hopefully I can snag Grants and I wont have to worry about it.

If the washer was simple enough to duplicate on a manual metal lathe or mill it would be much cheaper than setting up a program on a CNC mill to do it. At least that has been my experiance.

Did he not install it?

I broke the thrust washer in my tranny last week. Too much powah! :biglaugh: Anyhow, I got one from toyota today and thought I would post a pic. This is the washer that higher HP cars keep breaking. I am going to see how much it will cost to have a duplicate made out of a less...

As long as you are not boosting your AFR's should be around 14.7. There is no way you car will get that bad of gas milage unless you boost 90% of the time. Something is wrong. If you ahve no air leaks or error codes I would start by checking your cam gears. Dont trust the marks on them if...

Headers need to be coated on the INSIDE as well as the out side. If you just coat the outside heat can not escape and the temp of the metal goes way up. Hence the cracking. Take it to a place that can shoot the full length of the inside.

Full boost (18psi) by 3500 but I am still running the stock cat back. Once boost hits about 10 PSI it basically launches. I am getting a 22cm housing for it also. Your local correct? We should meet up.

I have an Greedy IHI RHC7 kit that has that manifold. Here are some pics of my engine bay. http://www.stillsports.com/mkiii The manifold is known to crack so it has been welded in th inside. I got the kit from Jose Maeso. It took a while to get but it was a good deal. It has the bling...

COP? Dont know that one. For $400 I am gona give the Megasquirt stuff a shot. If I dont like that then I will look at Microtech, FAST and AEM.

I'm probably going with an NA Dizzy and running an MSD ignition and ditching the coil packs.

Thanx for the info. Figuring out if I want to use crank trigger, CPS or Dizzy with stand alone.

Hey Guys, Can someone tell me how many theeth there are on the CPS and NA Distributor? Also, if someone has one of each laying around and has a digital camera I could really use pics of each with the cover/cap off. Thanx Guys.

A weak vac source would cause it to not open. If I pull the vac souce off the BOV stays shut.

Hey guys, I have a Tial BOV with an 11 PSI spring (and I have added a .032" shim). At idle my rpm's start to fluctuate (500-800rpms) and the BOV opens and closes. My EBC says I am pulling about -51cmhg. 1 PSI = 5.17149 cmHg so -51cmhg = -9.86psi. The sping should be plenty stiff no...

I bought 680cc injectors. I had them flow tested at a local shop. Flows were all over the chart. I returned them and Tom was great about getting me a refund. You can search my posts on sf.com to find the actual flow numbers. I cant remember off hand.

I need to re-paint the nose on my 88 (the rubber part in front of hood that the emblem is on). I have the equipment to do it but I would like to know what type/brand of paint to use. What Base (primer), Paint and clearcoat should I be using? Is it really any different than painting a metal...

I was just about to post that link up as I found it searching SF.com. Thanx for the info though!

Hind Sight is 20/20 I may be installing heavier spings so I can raise the rev limit. I know I should have done this during the rebuild but I was not planning on a turbo this big. Ah well. So, now the car is running and I think ok, lets raise rev limit so I can get a wider power band...

If they do a good job balancing then definatley have them do it. You will need to machine the front cover. Thats just asking for a warped head or a BHG on #1. All they should have to do is bolt it on.

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