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sorry Jeff, when im drivin thru the center im usually lookin to maek sure no one runs out in front of me, had too many close calls and i dont need to be hittin people lol. next time you see me just give me a jingle n i'lll stop by.

update: tore apart the engine i 1st rebuilt to swap out the crank with one i got in this deal. i mic'd the crank journals and they're all within spec. so slowly over the course of the next week or so im gonna re-rebuild the engine. so far i cleaned the block and painted it silver with some of...

thanks for the awsome info rich, i was actually gonna pm you to see how much it would cost to send my stuff out to you, but i found a useable crank in a extra 7m i had layin around.

you know u were standing at the window calling out to people as they drive by. :biglaugh::biglaugh:

You probably looked, but i checked the 1987 also and that says 140-180 as well. I've run both green and grey plug CPS' in my car with no problems. *edit: i ninja'd by toyotanos

thanks very much for the responses guys, i've learned quite a bit.

hahahaha see how you have the hardline shoved in the plastic T, thats a no-no :nono: the location is fine, the method is not.

well for this engine i just want to get it running, maybe 400 whp. thats why i cant justify spending over $500 just to get the crank machined. I'm still a little confused how the pistons/rods get zero balanced... do they just make sure everything weighs the same? i've been doin google...

Out of curiosity, what would happen if someone were to upgrade their pistons/rods to a forged alternative, but didnt balance the crank with them?

thanks for the response Ian. Any chance u could give me more info on the balancing aspect?

i've been calling a bunch of diff shops around my area gettin quotes and info on crank machining. One place said it was impossible to grind a crank and use oversize bearings, said it HAD to be welded then ground, also said that to balance it he needed the crank pulley, dampner, rods, bearings...

i wouldn't doubt it, the car had some type of half metal half composite HG on it before. i did check the head and block surfaces for warpage, but there only so much a straight edge and feeler gauges can do.

toyodiy.com

maybe the head is cracked, causing constant BHG's i did the HG the exact same way i did mine, and im running 400whp for the last couple months, daily with no problems.

wooow, talkin bout immaturity. I'll be the 1st to say it, it doesn't matter what you've done. it only matters what you're doing....

i've got an 08 jeep grand cherokee. got it last winter when i got rod knock tryin to get up an icy hill....

weirdly enough, the exact same thing happend to me last summer... must be those masscrack spiders. :biglaugh:

i didnt get that specific kit, but the stuff i got is the same. i noticed the timing belt tensioner is made of some type of plastic, not metal like the OEM one. also the HG, exhaust mani gasket and EGR cooler plate gasket should NOT be used get felpro or OEM for those. as for the pistons...

haha we'll see. thanks dani

nope, i actually haven't done a thing. painted my dash, replaced my valve seals, did a projector retrofit... i need to clean my garage and get a 2nd engine stand so i can swap engine parts. gotta get a crank machined then im gonna put it in my 1st rebuilt motor and drop it in the car, only...