Search results

::w00t:: Does this mean we will be seeing some updates in the near future?

Step 4. Take over the world, and or buy a boat lol

The NA doesnt work with some of our piping set ups, and isnt the best looking. Does that weapon R have a screen inside?

That was the first attemp and I never ran it that way and am sure I would have regretted it. Heres where I ended up moving it too. Lots of room now being post 90 you have the ps cooler though. I removed my unit and replaced it with the factory oil cooler. I would recommend...

My set up I had at the current time wouldnt handle the boss

I finally got a chance to borrow an ignitor today and it didn't make a difference. I took it for a drive untill fully warm and then let it sit for 2-3 minutes. After starting it again it was missing. Swapped ignitors and absolutely no change. JJ is there anyway the code 24 and 35 could even...

Check my build ken, better than NA res IMO

looking good ken

Well no change in the car, still runs super ruff after hot starts. All I can figure is somthing is shorting or throwing a bad value when hot and causing the ecu to pull timing erratically. I'v swapped the AIT, and all the temp sensors and it makes no difference. I tried icing the ignitor after...

Car is still down, well runs great until I shut it off and start again. Im stumped and no one else is throwing out any ideas so Who knows if it will be out at all until next spring.

lol, I have to find something to give you shit about right! Looks really good actually, just that I'v always twisted and had no problems with using shrink wrap. So when is it going to be back on the road?

Why not twist then solder easier and stronger?

It looks Like I must have used Vo to supply a signal to THA instead of a resistor. I'm still stumped on why the 24 and 35 have popped up all of a sudden. I am wondering if my ignitor could be the source of the missing when hot. I have it located down on the frame rail under the intake and it...

I checked the voltage and the resistance and found that it doesnt look like I ever put a resistor between THA and E2. I confirmed this with the multimeter and there is no connection between the two. If I test at the afm plug with the key on I get 2.51v between the two. If the range is 100mv and...

If the resistor is returning the wrong value to the ecu that would cause the codes but still shouldn't cause the miss correct? What will cause the ECU to pull timing badly?

Ok so I left the efi fuse out OVERNIGHT and put it back in, put the diag jumper in place and as soon as I turn the key I get 24 and 35. What would cause it to not even let me erase the codes??? Im pretty lost at this point, Paging Jet Jock

Yep hack mod is wired in, I should have also mentioned that the car has been running perfectly on the maft pro for 6 months. I havent changed anything just did a hg and put it back together and now this. Its not pulling fuel or spark so All I can figure is the timing. I think something is...

Im just confused because I have never had these codes or problems before and have been running the maft for a good 6 months of daily driving. I think I went with a 1.5k resistor between THA and E2? Its hard to remember maybe 2k, anyways I knew 2.2k= 60 degrees and my care see temps over that...

I all of a sudden have a code 24 and 35 and the car will miss very badly after hot starts. I have to drive for a good 20-30 minutes it seams like and then shut the car off and when I start it again it runs like shit and misses. Litteraly sounds like a subie and will run like this from there on...

Ok no go, still have the code 24 and 35 I just wasnt going on long enough drives. I have to drive for 20-30 minutes it seams like and then shut the car off and when I start it again it runs like shit an misses. litteraly sounds like a subie and will run like this from there on out. If I let it...