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does anyone have before and after dynos on a 264 or 272 cams on a built 7m? i cant figure out which ones i want.

hmm i have always used 35-40psi, never anything bad from that psi. now my dad did forget to turn it down from 140psi and well ... you get the picture. -shane

the motor is fine. just change over the oil pump,oil sending unit, pan, mounts and the intake mani and you should be good to go. iirc supras only came turbo in jap. the 2.0(1g), 2.5(1jz), 3.0(7mgte). so your motor is probaly from a cressida, crown or ? where in ohio are you at?

hey 1J can you post the thinest point on the exhaust side from port to water jacket? -shane

^thanks for the pics, i had been searching for pics like that. i also agree with whats been said. one of the best things for these heads is to just shape and smooth the head. shape the valve guide "bulge" into a tear shape and then smooth. just polish the short side radius. deshoud the boul...

i will say it, at least its an n/a.(it has the volt meter at least) i do like the rear look tho, just the front looks like crap. really with that flat hood

well that was on the first time ever to the track. his best run is a 14.1@99mph.85 degrees his set up is a full weight 92 1jz stock boost stock y pipe with 3" back with nurl spec intake hard pipes with ebay IC, hks BOV. he has to work on the driver mod tho. -shane

well the car is an grey 88 targa 5spd how it looked when it was towed in this is what it sounded like, it was described like a toddler banging on pans. out with the old well time for some fun dont sound to bad, open DP with a full 3" elbow and dp well as far as mods...

timming?

if you are going to go threw rebuilding the 7m dont half ass anything. i agree with new pistions(forged) bearings oil pump valve job valve stem seals gasket kit(duh) that is what i would do minium, spend the money once and it will last you 150k+. -shane

^ agreed depending on the milage on that motor I wouldnt be woried about those numbers. its in the 15% between all the cyl. so its still good to go for awhile as long as you dont turn up the boost ect. -shane

if you are using the turbo ecu and turbo harness, then yes all the turbo stuff will work just fine on an n/a block MINUS the turbo oil and feed lines. you will have to use the n/a-t oil kit for that. i would use the turbo injectors with a turbo maf because it is tuned for it. as for running it...

24 HW 19 city n/a avg. 21 26hw 18 city n/a-t:biglaugh: avg 23 note with a 3.90 gear

there whas a gto meet up at the track, the BEST i saw was a 14.1 out of a stock car. Most ran 14.5-14.6 and a twin turbo car ran 12.6 @12x mph. must have been 10 goats out there.

factory hood scoops with dual exhaust =ls2 and 400hp nice kill tho

adding the 3" elbow/DP will push the turbo close to 8 psi alone. intake (cone filter) hardpipes 2.25"-2.50" FULL 3" exhaust and go drive the car. it will amaze you how much more spunky it is. -shane

i think its you wont clear the rear 2 studs if they are already screwed in, setting the head in that is. but if you put the head on then put the studs on its all good iirc -shane

my built motor is running me in a the neighorhood of 4500-5k. includes je pistons .20 over crower rods ferra valves 1mm over com cam springs clevite bearings all machine work full port and poished head(done by me) poished crank so it aint cheap but pay to play. i plan on 700...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34560 dang it

nope those are ROSS, the pauter and ross are going in my next engine. the crower and JE's are going in my current project.