Search results

MHG and ARP's your good to play with a 100 shot for long time. the 7m will yeild about 130 hp and 180 tq from a 100 shot. they like:evil2: -shane

^ thats what it sounded like to me. just blowing the pipes apart once you spool up. check your IC pipes -shane

i know that all of the pauter rods are like 662 grams(in that area) but i am not sure if i would have a scale that is accurate enough for a true comparison. -shane

well i had the chance to get some of the main aftermarket rods together and see the differnet designs. the rods are as follows(from left to right) 1. stock 7M 2. stock 7M that has been shot blasted and lightened 3. eagle (ARP bolts) 4. Crower (Crower bolts) 5. Pauter (ARP bolts)...

if your tach moves at all it is most likely a turbo tach. MY n/a tach was dead when i started the car on the turbo electronics(worked on n/a stuff). it should be plug and play. might just be a bad tach. -shane

it does work. mine is still working fine. also you could just swap out the tach to a turbo tach its plug and play. -shane

i wouldnt advance the timming, i would leave it @stock. just my .02 shane

i have a 86.5 was the factory pan as far as i know. -shane

its on the side of the pan factory, its just a bolt on the n/a's. the reason i tapped it was that the factory thread size is rare to find fittings for. so i wanted a more common thread size so i can have more choices in fittings at better cost and abundance. -shane

i used the factory oil cooler return on my car no issues and i am at the 1000 mile mark. what i did is i went and got a pipe tap (coarse thread(just another fyi factory thead size is 12 x 1.25 rare thead in cars)) then used 25 psi of compressed air in the valve cover(positive pressure in the...

i dont think the higher compression is an issue. go to the basics what is the turbo doing? raising the compression. the turbo ecu is not even skipping a beat with my motor starting @ 10:1 CR then factory boost. as for the maft-pro if is works i would say atleast an additonal 20-40 hp just...

well i ran n/a electronics on my car for 4 days. I put 300 miles on that setup. would i ever tell someone to run it? no, if they had the option of turbo electronics. the problem with the n/a setup is the a/f's and timing once you hit 3rd gear.1st and 2nd are fine(11.8-12.6:1 on stock boost)...

well here is some different setups i have had 10:1n/a, header, intake that engine turbo'd on n/a electronics then full turbo electronics the whole thing took 2 days to turbo it then ran n/a electroncs for 4days, made a crap load of power but a/f's were to unstable so i swaped...

let me guess and 86.5? my 86.5 had the same thing but my 87,88,89, 91,92 didnt lol. the others all had a "fuse" not a wire. -shane

well as for exhaust i am running a stock setup with gutted cats(they where litteraly smoking do to being plugged) as for the CR yes i am sure of the number. as for the car it pulls harder that any supra i have been in(thats all the way up to 479wrhp) in 1st and 2nd but 3rd just falls on its...

well this morning i went a put a WB in and well i about craped my self A/F 26-27:1:runaway: well i drove it over to a friends house and we loosened the AFM back to stock and the a/f went down to 19-20:1. well he put his hand over the manifold and this "hiss" went away(injector wasnt all the...

i am working on a customers car and the car is: full na-t : stock ct-26, rebuilt 440's, turbo intake mani, p&p exhaust mani,factory piping and bosh recirculated and turbo FPR. 10:1 CR MHG with ARP's the goals where run 6-8 psi (6 is a target) but the car is hitting 6 psi at half...

i am going to use the factory oil cooler return. after reading up it seems it will work for my needs. and have read with people haveing succes with that set up. does anyone know the thread pattern on the bolt for the oil cooler return?

cool got them on the way. ^thanks.

does any one know where i can pick up/ anyone have a T for the sending unit? also a drain plate for a na-t?