Well these are the old-school domestic "mag" lug nuts:
Here is a Nissan/Toyota OEM "mag" lug nut:
These are "acorn" lug nuts:
"cone" lug nuts (common on steel wheels and many OEM Domestics):
These are "tuner" (specifically spline-type) lug nuts:
From what I was told when I...
In norcal, with a supra as you described, you'll probably get the most money for your time by doing that 1-time smog deal... You would be hard-pressed to make $1000 profit by parting a NA supra out -- and that is before you consider how much your time is worth to you. And ones in your...
I ran MKIV wheels with MK3 lugnuts for a long time, with frequent unmounting/mounting of the wheels.
Broken studs that far in are usually caused by overtorquing -- are you sure your shop isn't using an air gun to put the lug nuts on?
Tech info:
OUTSIDE THE CAR:
• ALL LUGNUTS/LUGSTUDS MUST BE PRESENT AND TIGHT
• HUB-CAPS/TRIM-RINGS MUST BE REMOVED
• FRONT WHEELS WILL BE CHECKED FOR WHEEL-BEARING PLAY AND STEERING LINKAGE PLAY
• REAR WHEELS WILL BE CHECKED FOR WHEEL-BEARING PLAY AND PRESENCE OF L.S.D.
• TIRES WILL BE...
This thread has been heavily edited by me (and reign). I'm sure I've made some people upset by deleting posts, so feel free to send me a PM to get my explanation.
In the future: Please keep it civil, and please keep it on topic. If you want to make a post that doesn't met those two...
I'm almost inclined to sticky it. I think the original poster brought up some issues many people feel from time to time, but most of the people who have replied have posted constructive criticism.
The search is a powerful tool, but like all tools it does have limitations. I don't think...
I ran champions once -- for about 3000 miles before I developed a miss and pulled them. Two of the plugs had cracked insulators -- something I've never, ever had with NGK over 100s of thousands of miles and much more abuse.
It could just be a defect in the cast for that particular part...
If you plan on doing any rock crawling with the true-track, just remember to apply a little bit of brake when you lift a rear wheel (with a true trac, if the wheel is in the air with no torque against it, it'll just spin).
Locker front, true-trac rear is a good setup (you don't get chirping when you go around corners normally because the front hubs are unlocked).
As for mudding, its a lot of fun but will get very expensive once you start breaking stuff. Good times though!
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