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great thread man. the car looks great. i sent the pics of my exhaust. we should meet up one day and maybe we can trade exhausts. when your done with your car, maybe you and your friend can help me paint my car... lol -pete

its easier to pull the motor with the trans attached. just get those bolts back in there before you pull it... lol

yes i believe thats correct. the 2 for the starter are a bit longer

grim has a good point. my last hid kit had a bad ground on the passenger side and i eventually blew a ballast

i think your referring to the tranny bolts. flywheel bolts connect the flywheel to the crankshaft

i am running 55W 6000K hids and at idle im running about 14V, when i turn on the hids the voltage drops to about 13v for a few seconds and then climbs back up to 14v. your voltage sounds pretty low. i would check out your grounds and the alternator. what fuses are you running on the hids? one...

id be interested in a log mani like the one posted before for the jz

i think the point im trying to make is that for someone who already has bolt on parts all around, the $200 for a tubular manifold will end up cost a lot more money. for example.. im running a comp series turbo, have a lipp elbow, rt downpipe, and cooleeze ic pipes. when you take into account...

i think whats he is trying to do is get the low gas warning light to go on earlier. so he isnt warned when he has an empty tank. i never let it get down below a minimum of 1/3 tank, so it could be useful to have it go on earlier

thats some good info.... i know what you mean now. if i plumbed it to the wrong side of the waxstat, the high pressure would be on the engine side of the oil circuit, which would explain why i have a high pressure reading since the pressure sensor is between the thermostat and the engine. but...

im not sure if i have the older design or not. i ordered it last july so i assume its a newer version. whats the difference in the installation? i just followed the arrows on the thermo as far as flow direction -pete

ill try that first... ive got to get an adapter to make it fit. and there probably isnt enough clearance, but ill make it fit originally i had the conventional filter located after the bypass so i switched them. im pretty sure the pressure has been the same since it was installed.

on the block, im using the canton block adapter to feed the cooler circuit. yes, im using the sandwich plate for the press and temp sensors. i mounted the dual filter relocation inside the fender, on the conventional filter. i hope so, i dont have the stock press gauge hooked up so i have...

im prob gonna make it down.

my oil pressure at idle is about 40psi, and 75-80psi at cruise. the car is running smooth and im not experiencing any other issues. i havent really realized that is was so high until a friend mentioned it at the track the other day. its way above the norm according to the TSRM. some...

water is a byproduct of the combustion process... its normal to have some liquid/vapor water in the exhaust. the other explanation is that your burning coolant -pete

im running cp's and eagles (eagles now come with arp hardware) here... with clevite bearings. the pistons are a bit heavier than most, but i like the piece of mind that im running bulky pistons. i did notice some piston slap this winter... but i expected that due to the different rate of...

im running driftmotion stage IV action 6 puck and it holds up good on the street... dont have much experience on the track though. i went to the track this weekend and it held its own -pete

what other options are out there for those who have a bolt on turbo where a custom downpipe and IC pipe doesnt seem seems like a lot of extra work

if you havent done a leak down test... then do it. otherwise you might want to consider taking the head off and inspecting the hg. they are reusable... as long as there is not serious damage. -pete