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Time to not do that because big arse mishimoto radiator is more important to replace my rotting one lol. You can't even do an r12 system anymore can you? Been reading about conversions and from what I've been reading it'll be like 150$ for conversion parts drier and all that.. 100-150 parallel...

Okay well that valve on the A/C compressor itself, Ijust took a screw driver and pressed the valve in and there was no pressure, no air or anything coming out. So I'm guessing the electronic sensors don't detect and pressure so it won't turn the compressor on? I thought if that was true the a/c...

So my A/C quit working before I did my engine swap, the clutch quit engaging I didn't do much diagnosis back then. But now I've tested a few things, the 10A fuse is good. The one pin plug is plugged into the harness. The clutch piece spins freely no bearing noise. My A/C light stays on it does...

Well got a replacement it was definitely cracked and one of the columns of fins were kind of smashed in lol.. No more fuel cut though. :) Still spikes up to like 11-12 psi maybe and drops to 8-10 as I continue pulling. Is that just the waste gate working or my boost gauge being not perfect?

I got a 3.5" pvc with a plug.. But it has the same OD as the accordian hose so then I like shoved the plug in really hard and clamped it down lol. I couldn't get the according hose off the turbo and I don't think I woul dhave enough room anyways. But there was a definite leak or something on...

My sexy 10$ boost leak tester I made.. Anyways with the oil cap on I hear air leak or some noise on the drive side of the inter cooler so iit's probably cracked and not a loose hose or something :( Could probably pattch it with weld or something until I get a new one haha.

So I have boost leak AND fuel cut lol.. Well I found a bunch more valves to use with my compressor to listen for leaks.. It's going to be a bitch to find because it's a leak that only happens when there is 10+psi through the system... I can make pressure with the compressor but that's not even a...

Well now with what happened I got to figure out what was going on why my psi was dropping as I revved higher. I figure I'll just get 550s and lex this weekend to at least have one problem fixed and then see what happens from there.

Damn :( Cold night so I tried going out boosting again... Although I didn't get FC but something else was happening.. Once I wou ld hit my 10-11psi somewhere around there, it would slowly drop all the down way to about 5-6psi or so at higher rpm until I left off.

I'm not sure if I would trust myself to open it up, and the hassle of taking it apart again is a ridiculous amount of work. It's gotten a lot better it's smoother but still locked up harder than it should be. I mean it did spend like 2 weeks with absolutely no oil in it.

Yeah I agree that it's obviously fuel cut now that I can see my boost pressure :P Lol. Is it normal for it to 'bog' after fuel cut like he said? As in after it hits fuel cut it'll keep pulling but at like 7psi or something? I noticed too after I hit fuel cut and let go of throttle, my idle...

Oh that's cool I'll take a look at that sometime, too bad the friggin according hose feels like it melted on the turbo it's so hard to get off lol. And to the other guy, both really. I was just trying to figure out if I was having a boost leak or having boost cut due to too much air/boost...

I've been doing like 2nd and 3rd gear pulls. On the highway when i'm crusiing at 2500rpm I can push the gas down and get a spool. I'm just saying I wasn't hitting that peak 12psi till like 3200rpm or so. I feel like it's a 57 trim rebuild or something, I wouldn't expect to high FC at such an...

Explain what you mean by bogging? It still pulls pretty hard, def faster than my rich running 7mge but not nearly as hard as it does before fuel cut. Well I'm sure it's a ct26 but I thought ct26's are supposed to be on boost faster than 3300rpm? Especially when I have a redone head dpp and...

Got my boost gauge installed. Went WOT in 3rd at 2k rpm. Boost went up to ~12psi, at like ~3300rpm hit fuel cut, dropped to like 6-8psi and kept pulling for the rest of the rpm without a cut. Does this sound like a stock turbo? I thought stock ct26 were quicker on boost than that, and I have a...

So got my turbo motor and everything running it's awesome. I have no boost gauge or sensor figured I'd just save for a boost controller for the two in one. My only mods are a 3" dpp with a 3" exhaust. We didn't mess with the block but the toyota mechanic said something has been worked on before...

Damn... Whole bottle of ford friction modifier and it's still sticking.. One time I jacked up my car and my left tire kind of turned back as it was lifting like something was even twisted or something.

Lol I have no idea no boost gauge :( Factory one got cut up so I couldn't use that. I figure I'd best wait to get money for a boost controller instead of buying a gauge and a controller later too. Yes it's a fuel cut, it would happen at like 3500 rpm when full boost starts going, but I could...

Well a filter helped my idle a ton. Still a high idle but a solid idle no matter. Replaced most all my broken clamps on my intake and IC piping. Still got a fuel cut.. I made a homemade boost leak tester really. Just got a 3.5" PVC plug drilled a shredder valve in it, plugged it into the...

Well poured like more than half the bottle in, it's definitely better than when I first got it but it's still skipping a bit more slippery surfaces. Hoping just driving on it more and more will help get the fluid through?