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Would castrol GTX 10w-30 be acceptible for our cars? I'm planning on doing an oil change tommorow and am at a loss over what to put in the damn thing. I'm so paranoid with this car. FYI, my car has the original 7mgte in it with about 123,00 miles on it. I would assume it would be...

I have Tein HA's.

Is that the part number for the bump stops or whatever they're called that sit horizontal? Or are those the rubber stops that attach vertically to the hatch lid? I need the part numbers for both so I can replace them and hopefully fix my rattle! And on a side note, if anyone has the part...

Okay. Here's my dilemma. As I see it, the car has two main issues when it comes to making more power: the OEM gasket, and the automatic transmission. I have no idea how much power I'm making but my goal has always been around the 350-400hp mark. I'm not sure what will be the biggest obstacle...

Okay here's the deal. I have a budget of about $4000-ish to spend on my car. I'd like to get some opinions on what to do. First, I'll give you the rundown on the car: 1989 Turbo Targa Red/Gray Automatic 121,000 miles Recent HG job using OEM gasket, ARP hardware, head machined, etc...

IMO, don't get a new elbow. Get a BIC DP that eliminates that heavy piece of crap. The gains are tremendous and worth every penny. Sell your existing downpipe to help cut losses/expenses and be done with it.

I thought our cars needed some sort of heavy weight oil to prevent rod knock, yet I notice a lot of you guys going with 10w30, which is what the manual calls for. I'm due up for an oil change and am wondering about what weight to put it. I just have 10w30 Castrol GTX in there now.

In my opinion, you're going to get walked. Unless he doesn't really go for it then you'd have a chance.

Oh fucking do it. Just do it and don't even second guess it.

^^^^ Okay, so we have some conflicting info it seems. If I buy this: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale/HKS/Blow_Off_Valves/Blow_Off_Valves/part/SSQV Then that is just the BOV itself, with no hardware right? So I take it I just need to buy the whole kit and discard the pipe or...

I am 6'5" and fit just fine and am extremely comfortable. I find it stunning that a Japanese car from the 80's has better leg room and comfort for tall people than most American vehicles made today, especially my '98 Ranger 4x4! And you know what I don't like about Supras? The USDM ones...

I'm looking at a couple of intercooler kits and they offer the option to have a flange for say an HKS or Blitz BOV on there. Does that mean that with the flange welded on, I don't need to buy the HKS SSQV kit and can just buy the BOV itself? That would be a nice bit of cash to save.

OMG that was a stupid video. It has no redeeming value whatsoever.

Didn't Mark Tozer try to copyright the term "BPU" awhile back? Anyways, so we're thinking a set of quality gauges then is the next logical step? I think at the same time I'm going to get a set of sway bars and strut bar along with that brake package that SupraStore sells.

Okay here's the boat I'm in. I have a near "bpu" Turbo that consists of a turbo back exhaust setup and an Apex'i Intake. The engine is in proper order with a new OEM head gasket, ARP bolts torqued to 72 IIRC, miscellaneous gaskets, coolant flush, oil change, etc etc. No leaks, no other...

Any recommendations on a IC upgrade? I'm looking to ditch my stock one and use something more efficient.

I'm having the exact same problem you are. It is in fact my heater VSV. Start the car, turn on the heat and push up on the little little valve bracket thingy. When depressed mine will stay up and allow me to have heat until I turn down the temp below 85 then it'll close and I'll get cool air...

I say follow Ians13's advice and check the timing with the CPS. I had my CPS off one tooth and had almost no power and the car was running very hot!

Do the auto trans have the same speedo cable hookup and the like? I thought I remember reading somewhere that on the manual 1jz swaps there was some issue with the speedo cable or something like that. Does this ring a bell at all?

For the swap would I need to use the A342E or will the A340E work with a swapped bellhousing?