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You mean If I plug the vac hoses that plug into the TB's nipples? I believe I tried that and nothing happened... Everything is taken apart now so I can clean it out with my air compressor, I'll try again when I put it back together Really running out of ideas, this doesn't make sense to me!

When I disconnected the two vac hoses (which I'm pretty positive are hooked up correctly) nothing changed, there was no vacuum coming from the two fittings on top of the TB I am pretty sure my PCV passage in the TB is clogged... I am draining the coolant to take off the TB

That would be it, the hole at the top before the butterfly valve, on the inside... If I plug it, it kills the engine If I plug the outside of the TB, where the PCV hose connects, there is no suction, nothing happens I'm not worrying about timing until I get this sorted out I'm almost...

Update: Plenty of suction from the ISC hose, plugging it brings idle down, almost no suction from PCV hose, doesn't do much plugging it Took off my upper IC pipes, the TB sucks in air like CRAZY! The butterfly valve is completely closed though, there's a huge amount of vacuum coming from the...

If I spray carb cleaner into the open BOV, the idle does go down, so I think this is my problem If I adjust timing with the jumper in, even though I'm just under 1500, I couldn't get it down to 10*, it's at like 30 or something rediculous, not sure if this is because of the RPM's or what...

When I pinch the ISC and TB PCV hose the engine almost dies, but not quite... I'm not sure If I'm just not able to completely pinch off the ISC hose with my fingers or If this does mean I have a vacuum leak :( All the hoses are brand new, I really hope it's not an intake manifold gasket or...

It still concerns me that it's open at idle :aigo: I will try and pinch off the ISC valve, funny I had that idea but forgot about it when I actually had time to work on the car :biglaugh: Didn't think to pinch off the PCV hose from the TB though I'm positive it's not the TB being ajar, I...

That's exactly how I mounted mine. Except I managed to avoid cutting any holes, I think I drilled one extra hole for the filter mount but the rest used factory holes. I managed to avoid making the filter mount diagonal, but the way you are doing things will probably allow you to run shorter...

Yup! The break pads I got, and most aftermarket replacement sets, have integrated shims and don't need the factory ones. Also make sure you still have those 2 'spring' clips on each pair of pads that holds the pads apart. That plus clean and greased slider pins made my breaks nice and quiet!

Looking good Congratulations on getting married!! Where did you decide to mount the oil cooler, t-stat, filter mount? You say there's only one place it can go, well I'm curious if it ends up being in the same place I put my enormous B&M :)

Tial knockoff, with the light spring (7 psi iirc) I'm running off the wastegate spring, no shims or boost controller

Hey guys I have a strange problem, I've done some searching here and on google and found no solutions or anything My BOV is staying open at idle, as soon as I give it a bit of throttle it snaps shut - pinching the vac hose does nothing. I also have a very high idle, about 1500, i don't have a...

I figured out the ball joint, just had to use the jack to put some pressure on it, I had to run to the hardware store and get a 14x1.5 nylon lock nut The big issue as of now: My BOV is still staying open at idle, as soon as I give it a bit of throttle it snaps shut - pinching the vac hose does...

Probably was a waste of money, but I dumped my oil, my full flow filter (only necessary step apparently) and the media for my trasko, there was a good amount of crap caught on top of the screen on my trasko (scary considering it's plumbed after the full flow filter!!) I can't imagine what they...

I already have all the oil for the change anyways, and I won't be using single viscosity 30W anymore after the first 500 miles... I suppose I can return it, I'm going to look at the filter media in the trasko and then decide

Next challenge: Emissions testing! Not going to pass with a 1500 rpm idle :aigo: Some warm oil pressure readings from yesterday: 1500 rpms: 21 psi 2500 rpms: 49 psi 3500 rpms: 62 psi

Keep it up buddy, my build took over 3 years as well, and I haven't done a lot of the fancy stuff you've put together!! Not to mention I'm just a young student, so my responsibilities are close to zilch: Work, school, bills, and car, no family, house, or plenty of other issues that can get in...

I was planning on changing the oil to flush the system, but still using single viscosity 30W I guess I won't worry about my oil temps for now, I really need to get my coolant temp sensor working, but I know my T-Stat works because the Radiator gets nice and hot, and my expansion tank level...

I thought I was supposed to do a oil change after the first 20? Do you think I'm right to be worrying about oil reaching operating temps?

Well my odomotor is only reading like 9 miles but I know I've done somewhere between 20 and 30, and things are feeling good :) engine pulls good vacuum but it idles very high, I'm guessing thats due to a vacuum leak... No more driving until I do a oil change, still 30W, not multi-viscosity...