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What did the tech say was the problem? You know Miguel does a/c. Not sure about his availability though.

Like Mike said, probably just the capacitor. I had the same thing happen to me. Blower stopped working because capacitor didn't kick it over. Of course the evap coil will freeze over due to condensation over the coil and no airflow through it. I bought another capacitor and it worked like a...

yeah, you know how I roll. I tear shit up.... literally. It won't be long before something goes wrong again. Just trying to have fun with it while it last. Where abouts do you live David? I'd like to swing by a visit sometime if you don't mind. Don't know when that would happen though. I'm...

Thanks guys. Nah, they're far and few between around those parts. Just gotta be careful. I rarely do that anyway. As a matter of fact that's the first time since I've had my car up and running I took it past 110mph. Last time I went that fast was at the dragstrip.

:nono: Damn.

Here's a little reminder... don't be scurry! From 5mph to 115mph. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShgazgIrBuY&feature=youtu.be

What if one were to run the stock AFM would everything run good? I'm not shooting for any big horsepower, and would take the stock AFM to its limit... whatever that is.

Oh don't worry, I'll remind you of what a 7m is all about. Just get your car going, and you'll soon remember the wrath of 7m!!!

Sure, we'll help you get it all sorted out.

Darrel, did you send the cylinder head to Millers machine shop? Are you going to get the blocked milled with the timing plate just to be sure it's even? Mike, does that BW have the 3" Vband on the turbine?

Looks good. Can't wait see it scoot.

241 casting heads are 67cc LS1 heads. What's the stock combustion chamber volume size on the stock L33 heads? So is the bottom end a 6.0l LS2?

We're always here to help. Do you have a box of parts, and don't know where they go? If so, post pics of every bit and piece you have, and we'll tell you where it goes.

Why not pull the current engine that's in the car and sit it next the to the new one going in? Begin swapping parts (sensors) over from old to new.

Did the shop, or you happen to overfill the overflow bottle at some point? Does it do it everyday, and you constantly have to top it off? Or was this a one time deal?

I've always heard of the not having the idle tensioner not torqued down when machined issue, but seeing is believing. Unfortunately it was an oversight for me as well when I had my block machined. :(

Autozone has a loan a tool program as we all know. Try the block tester. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Block-Tester/_/N-25dh?filterByKeyWord=engine+block+tester&fromString=search

Yes. If any pulley isn't torqued down correctly it could make that noise. My first thought was crank pulley, but then it sounded too quick. That led me to believe it's coming from the valvetrain. Check all pulleys are torqued down properly and check again. Good luck.

Pull valve (cam) covers off and measure valve lash. I don't know why it would suddenly make that noise if all you did was swap it over. Did you upgrade valve springs, or mess with any of the valve shims while the engine was out?

So you guys are already at the point you can remap the stock ECU to various injectors? If I were to tell you that I run 680cc's and an Lex AFM you could remap my ECU to perform correctly?