Search results

Shaeff! i've seen you much on the forums and add much.... but you posted the same thing in the other forum too! lololol Thanks, but those are not the colors for my Cam Position Sensor.. Thanks tho! NOTE: 88 turbo (different from 89+, but same as 87)

I messed up the CPS wiring when i took out the pins out of the male side (off the harness). Two wires where hanging on by only one strand. I was wondering if anyone knows witch go to witch THANKS Female - 1.Orange 2.Green 3.Yellow 4.Brown Male - ?Brown ?Black ?Gray ?Orange/red-ish Note: this...

When displacement and turbos can't go any further theres always RPM's! lol

Its still not a sticky?

I learned at school and much research that a screw driver with a rag works the best. J/k.... I'm yanking you chain.

Get ready for some lag with the stock setup. I would say to start with the Exhaust like mentioned above, then Intake and SAFC and all that fun stuff. Just my 2 cents, I'm sure there might be a better way to approach it.

You could have a leak some ware els, i would say you should check you're hoses. A loose manifold is out because it should get better when warm. I think, and i mean think! that it might be you're CPS.. because if herd this happen to someone on the forums and they ended up replacing there cps and...

I think you should just torque it down to 75ft pounds with what it has already, no ARP's and spend 30bux on new hoses (the bigger ones are expensive) if you want to stay around 300hp @ the wheels for years to come.

Torque down the head to 75 ft pounds, and if you want ARP studs (witch is a great idea) then get ready to take the tap and die out because you're going to have to make sure there is no dabre before you install the new studs. And a stock HG is good for 400hp+ as long as you at least torque down...

That sux lol, and you didn't hear it sound funny?

If its the Vale Seals then you will typically only see it when you start the car because it leaks down wile the car is at rest.

Yes! The cams are different of course FYI keep the exhaust cam and switch out the intake for turbo cam. Plus I believe the valves are smaller +1 for gas mileage LOL not sure on that though.

Thought my dad was retarded when he told me not to put on any oil on some rotors i couldn't take off (i put PB blaster on one side), But! to put water on rusted (stuck) shit!? works a shit load better then oil. If it had oil.... water wont work anymore, has to be 100% dry.

Mine look scored but at the same time polished HA HA HA... i guess i mean wavy.

There is a vac line from the back of the mani to a small box on the drivers side, then that gives a reading to the gauge.

Well when you first turn the key without starting the car the gauge should read out 0 then as you start it, it should shoot down to -4.

Exhaust side helps from the n/a to turbo, but i think i heard that the intake side is a step down from the turbo.

Got one... and yeah, the dipstick reads lower and easier now COOL! 10bux and change I needed one because my old one was causing a vac leak

I remember hearing that a dipstick from a later Toyota pickup would fit in a 7m and read full with half a quart more (middle is full). I'm so sure i read this in the forums before.

I need help on how to take out the hub stud the easiest way. I haven't really have had a good look at it except for TSRM and i don't know if i should press it out or if its possible to do it wile the hub is in place. I'm going to take a look at it but any ideas would help. THX