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Did you get the 2 large connectors back into the driver-kick-panel fusebox area? Also, hooked up ALL of the guage cluster's connectors? Make sure you hooked up the safety-flasher and cig lighter... Your turn signals will not work without the flasher being hooked up and some of the...

The EFI fuse and Main relay good? What about the crank angle sensor (been awhile, but assuming the 1JZ has one)? I would also think that the ECU may be bad. That's what happened to us w/a 2JZ-GE ECU once. See if you can borrow a known-good one to test.

The hose place had some that were tranny fluid specific... Any Goodyear hose/rubber supply-type of place will get ya hooked up right (cheap). Basically... 1. Big hose from reservoir to pump 2. Small hose to cooler (from reservoir). Get creative here... 3. Small hose from cooler to PS...

The A/C helper fans are supposed to come on when the A/C pressure(?) gets to a certain point. So, even if not overheating, the A/C may not blow as cold 'cause not enuff air is being pulled through condensor. I relocated my battery, so that I could keep 'em as well as deal with a couple of...

I got a small cooler from the autoparts store, some tranny-fluid lines from a local hose/pipe supply place, and a reservoir from a Lincoln Towncar... Reservoir is to the right of the fusebox in this pic...

Should be okay to run without 'em, but U should always keep an eye on your temps (looking over your shoulder)... I'd recommend that you run w/o 'em for a bit and see how it goes... starts to overheat, just turn the A/C off and go install the fans or get some aftermarket one(s). Mine still...

The differential.

Found the maps from an archive of Rick's old site... The IH2 Connector says wire from IH2 #18 (IH1#13 AC Amp) goes to dash B1-Pin 13.... http://web.archive.org/web/20051216115957/http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IH2(87-89).pdf However, the IH1 Connector shows #11 also goes to...

Anyone have a pic/diagram of the coolant lines on the intake side of the block (1JZ)? Basically missing the multiple-metal-line thing that runs underneath the intake. Having to figure out the vacuum and coolant routing today... so far.... Coolant: 1. Nipple towards front of block (beside PS)...

I did the power rewire deal suggested by the gurus... may be in the Tech sections of the forum. Replaced large alternator-wire w/a 0-gauge, also have the same gauge going to the battery (relocated to hatch).

I used someone's write-up for using the Aristo ECU's ACMG signal... Ended up jacking the ECU up and reconnected the wires going to the A/C amplifier. Same thing tho... wire/signal stays the same at the compressor. I'll take a look in a bit and see if I can get a pic and/or tell you which...

THANKS! Yeah, the downpipe has the bung already. I think the estimates are a bit aggressive, so trying to plan/think ahead, so that I don't mess things up. Won't have time to undo much and still planning to leave with our TX2K12 caravan Wednesday. This is one of them thing you have to...

Can ya'll please help me with some time estimates?? Was going to wait, but thinking I may still try to do the rest of my fuel system. Worried that I don't have enough time before the TX2K12 meet... Seems like I need to finish it, if I get started. I searched and will take much more time to...

Just follow what the 93-98 Supra TRSM says. Scrape with a razor blade and I'm sure there is a procedure for checking straightness. Not sure about flatness tho. If the block is out, I'd have the machineshop clean it up. My machineshop honed(?) the cylinders, measured tolerances, replaced...

I have a couple of spare GE heads and have thought the same... Basically, everything around them changes... Intake/exhaust manifolds, cams, ECU, distributor, etc, etc May still eventually use 'em, but just haven't figured out how to do it, without all of that overhead. Easier/cost-effective...

Doublechecked last night... I got an Intellitronix gauge, which does require some 0-100 PSI digital sender (theirs for near $30). I need to finish my gauge cluster project soon :-/

LOL, yeah.... did not have a resonator. Sounded great tho, just something about how the sounds would combine. Great alone, but did not play together well. I will miss that HKS muffler :-(

When I was looking at the digital oil pressure gauge (Autometer, I think), the accessory/optional sender, looked exactly like that on a 7M (which is why I did not buy the sender at the time, tho I ordered a different digital display). Just assumed it was a standard Toyota thing. Guess I can...

Sorry to "maybe" hijack... The sender that we use, seems VERY similar to the senders which are offered for aftermarket digital oil pressure displays. Has anyone in this thread tried using one of those aftermarket/universal displays with the stock sender?

The HKS exhaust I had would give me a headache when cruising around 2K RPM. I liked bumpin' the bass, but when combined with that exhaust drone it was pretty unpleasant. I Dynamated the entire interior and that helped alot. Also, I was wanting to keep the sound clean, so wanted to separate...