yah, I have the Toyota brake setup, I just need to install them. Not quite sure on the rear end choice yet. Possibly z31 clutch type LSD, but they are getting hard to find nowadays.
Here are a couple of pics of a test fit of the new Drewgo manifold and the Driftmotion 60-1 turbo. I just need to clock the compressor housing before I have an elbow welded on.
got my 6 point roll cage in. Here is a pic of the cage and the shifter location. If I use a soarer r154 shifter housing then it will sit dead center, but It is not to far off right now. Here a a couple of pics.
Driftmotion 60-1 is a perfect turbo for a 1jz. It is what I have for my new 1jz project. Great price and very good looking with the polished compressor housing and ceramic coated exhaust housing.
thanks guys, It is something that I have always wanted to build, and the best part is that their is no smog on it here in California since it is a 74', which is kind of a reason I sold my supra shell. I'll get pics of the tranny position tomarrow after work and post them up. Their is so much...
Its a custom crossmember that was welded in. I'll get some more pics of the interior and how the shifter fits. The shifter fits pretty close to the factory hole but it is a little farther forward.
Here are some pics of my new 1jz project. Its a 1974 Datsun 260z. Its the 1jz out of my mk3 supra. Its a single turbo 60-1, with crower cams, hks 540cc injectors, fuel cell, ect. Going to be running a Drewgo manifold and a Driftmotion 60-1 this time around.
that is a lot of oil to be losing in 1000 miles for a 1jz. I would perform a compression test and also a leakdown test just to make sure that it is not the engine that is burning oil. You could have bad turbo seals, but most likely you would have some smoke in the exhaust.
I have done it. My car ran and drove fine cruising around town as the ECU was able to correct the difference, but under WOT my car was running pretty rich. It was drivable but you won't get the max performance out of the car unless you get an AFC or something of that nature.
y:biglaugh::biglaugh: yah sometimes you have use brute force to knock the shim in and out, but it doesn't mess up the shim. I work for nissan and I have done a bunch of ka24de's which are the same style and also my 1jz, so I have a lot of practice. Yah, a bunch of times the holder will pop out...
Once you install the new cams, their is an easy way to shim the cams without taking them out. I will post pics of the tool that I use to compress the spring and another tool to hold the edge of the bucket to keep it down while you pop the shim out with a screw driver, magnet or compressed air...
Actually, if you just want to get the car running, I installed some JDM 440's on my car and the ECU was able to correct my low throttle fuel trims with zero correction on my afc, until I started getting into WOT. I was able to drive regularly on zero correction and still run a perfect A/F ratio...
its pretty hard to screw that up, Just line up the cams and the crank gear and release the tensioner and you are set. Very hard to screw that up:biglaugh:
I have that exact XS t3 manifold as in the picture now with a 60-1 and the hood basically rests on the turbo. I personally think that their will be now room for a t3 ct26 adaptor with the xs manifold. You might have better luck with another manifold that sits lower.
honestly, I had the ct26 manifold kit from Driftmotion and I think that the SP61 would fit, but it will be damn close to the shock tower, possibly touching it. A big shot with a sledge hammer could fix that though:biglaugh:
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.