Search results

lol thanks man :) you have a pm

i believe you are the guy that emailed chris (supraman502) about an exchange for the 5sp swap off of our car. im willing to work something out. and you are close enough we could meet up so thats even better.

bump.... can someone verify? im a lowly auto guy lol

yep was just gonna mention that as well, good call. i guess thats why this is "your house" lol radials are measured by section width where slicks are measured by contact width. but i would also like to add do not mix bi-ply and radial tires, esp on an IRS car. they squirm something...

vac fittings for sure. thats all that has to be there. the rest is up to you. egr, cold start injector, and the isc are the optional parts. egr= emission inspection? cold start = may have to crank a little longer in cold weather isc = will have to bump up idle speed and let the...

you are gonna have to do some serious work to get 28x11.5 in there. 27's barely fit.

stock cable here, but i dont have the Ron R. you would be surprised how long the cable is if you unbolt it and reroute it. here is the bracket sean came up with. turned out real well i think. wot the crimp comes at the end of the boot like it is supposed to.

does this help?

here you go chris- To maintain the same distance from the flywheel to the pressure plate (and therefore the same force) the step between the mounting surface for the pressure plate and the flywheel friction surface must be maintained. Therefore, they need to grind at two different depths...

tack welded into place using a lincoln welder. then took to buddy to tig weld it. altho some of the welds i did myself that werent gonna be in the engine bay. me<him if you want to get into welding you need a decent quality mig welder. they still arent cheap, but you can get something...

damn! thats the best 60' time ive seen w/ 275/40 tires, or any low profile street tire for that matter. good job!!

chop saw is still needed. you have to cut the piping to fit. thats whether you weld it or use just couplers.

huh? :dunno:

welding is always better. less failure points. but you can always just cut and use couplers. depends on the routing you take and the amount of couplers you have to how well that method will work for you. also, get a chop saw! i got a cheapy one from harbor freight for $50 (normally $99...

here you go! whaletail w/ the trunk open ;) special bonus! suprahero cameo!

hahahah car sounds good, but that camera makes the turbo sound like tuning a short wave radio. either that or 50's sci-fi movie.

bryan of course is spot on. you have to have it seperate from the driver compartment. what i had thought about doing was making/modding a remote filler neck thru the stock location. that way you wouldnt have to screw w/ plates, trap doors and dzus fasteners everytime you need to fill it...

the one on the bottom for power steering you can leave off. the one for the bov (not sure what you are running) can be capped. just dont boost or it will put undue stress on your turbo. ** ok i see you are running the greddy rs so this prob wont apply** the one for the pcv you can just leave...

thanks for the graph! it isnt too far off using rpm. i thought there might be a little more disparity there. your converter must be fairly tight. usually on the bigger stall converters you will have higher than actual torque down low and lower than actual hp peak because of the converter...

congrats! do you have a high stall converter or stock? did you compare rpm vs speed vs power? also, when dynoing an auto, it works best if you unplug the ect ecu (pass side kick panel). this puts it in diag mode and you can lock it in gear and not have to worry about upshifting and...