Not much to report, folks.
Been out of town(and broke) for a little while, and i'm STILL waiting for my 6266 to arrive, so i can start planning out the ic placement and exhaust routing. I just ordered a few bits and pieces for the feed and drain lines;
AN4 teflon braided feed line with black end...
Yes! This!
Underfill a 7M, and your next thread will be titled "strange knocking noise, what is it?".... Followed closely by the all-too-popular "should i rebuild, or just go JZ?" Thread.
:)
I like your story. Good luck with the car.
That last pic looks like your dog is acting as a second jack stand.
As for your window problem, its the switch, not the wiring. The contacts inside get dirty.
That was an extremely well written synopsis.
As for the cause of the problem, not sure. Initially i wanted to say exhaust blockage. If you have a catalytic converter, its possible that the substrate could be partially blocked/ melted. I know you test exhaust back pressure, but i'm not sure if...
If you were to unplug the hangar and jumper the two wires in reverse and get fuel,
Of course that would confirm it. And you might be able to easily de-pin one side of that plug,
Negating the need to drop the tank, if you're feeling lazy(like i probably would).
17 to 18 is lean as hell, not rich.
Are you getting black smoke or something?
Ps- if that braided fuel line touches that alternator post, it's instant game over.
I had my set up the exact same way, with the same teflon lined hose. I changed to a rubber coated AN line for that spot.
3p is correct(in my opinion) of steering you towards the cam/crank timing.
The tsrm tells you to rotate the motor by hand through a minimum of two revolutions, after setting cam timing.
Then you recheck it. This is because it is possible for slack in the belt to allow a cam to jump a tooth, or...
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