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or just get a steeringwheel puller... makes life a TON easier... for steering wheels and harmonic pulleys..

frank... wtf is the point of that?

i used an air gun and it came off. used the same way to put back on. (i tried to tighten in 5th with the e-brake. just slipped my clutch... LOL)

i totally forgot about that. and its funny because thats why i just did my timing belt. i heard a little "clanky" sound from the front, thought it was my waterpump... WRONG. it was those two pressed on guides. the front had fallen off so my belt was riding towards the front of the cam gears...

why not get a 240z? ae86? miata? those are all readily available... sure you dont have a "cappuccion"... but it seems like you want power more than anything.

make sure your crank pulley bolt is TIGHT and torqued down to 190ft lbs IIRC. and also check your tensioner, make sure that it has the spring on the correct location and its torqued to 34 ft lbs IIRC.

theres 2 screws. one on each side. and you just pull it from the fuse box.

according to UR (unorthodox racing) the base settings for adjustables is retard the exhaust 2-3 and advance the intake 1-2. but whats funny is they say the EXACT same thing for the eclipse... which just shows to me that a DOHC turbo engine, retard the exhaust, and advance the intake...

there was a guy at my school. he turboed his v8 chevy truck. one day hes drivin/racin or whatever... but hes boostin it, and he BLOWS APART his throttle body... why you ask? because he didnt have a BOV to release the pressure before the throttle body... i plan on using one if not TWO BOV's to...

i'll guess 300HP... at the crank.

thats actually a REALLY good idea about the rad and WD40... i was just spraying my head with WD40.. but the rag idea would make it a lot easier and would prevent a lot more than just sitting out in the open. Thanks for the idea!

if the big single can move the same or more air as two smaller ones, get the larger one. i personally dont like my spal fans, sounds like a god damn tornado under my hood... and its only running 1 fan. but i never use it anyways... haha

compared to other cranks where i've seen them removing 20lbs... but yes, i know 8lbs at 6500 is like what... 300lbs? somethin like that...

If i recall correctly... you can only remove 8 or 9lbs from the 7m crank. (not the 6m) or you'll throw off the "natural" harmonics it was made with... IJ knows about this. Just wait for him to see the thread... so its worth very little for us. theres a lot of other areas that need attention.

lol. to me the AE is like a "midget"... its basically a go-kart... haha if i saw an AE86 in the right color, and the right bodystyle (which im still not sure which is which to be honest) then MAYBE i would consider one... they have such tiny motors though... its like having a honda...

i just got done looking at some of the build ups on ka-t.org or whatever it was... pretty cool. but im gonna have a turbo supra. so i have no need for another turbo car... haha its either a 91 240 with some bolt ons... say... cat-back, test pipes, intake... and if i want/find some cam gears...

a lot of the dudes i know who have them can light em up pretty good... its suprising... and if its a "truck" motor all the better, means it should last! i love my supra, but i'll gladly take a .6L hit for 10 more MPG...

Driveline - as in the carrier bearing and the rear diff? Transmission i can get from the junkyard too. or even try and rebuild it myself... haha. I want RWD just in case i decide to go out and try to D1 the back roads... i know a bunch of 240 guys in my car club, so i was going to have them...

im really sorry about that... i just came back to look as i was like oh whoops... we have "other cars"... haha. sorry about that one!

im still LOL so bad about that timing belt comment.... i know taking a piece of 1500 to it isnt PERFECT. but its better than nothing... theres quite the specefied range for the clearance for the caps. and in order to line bore the saddles is going to cost more than you'll EVER be willing...