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Dealership. 1JZ and 2JZ share the same pan. You'll probably just need the lower part. Might be cheaper to just hammer the pan out though.

That's the realization everyone makes the first time they swap twins. "Wow, that was NOT worth it. I should have gone single".

yes, just put it in the back.

they're completely different by design. The 7M uses top-feed injectors (injectors sit below the rail), the 1/2JZ use side-feed (injectors sit inside the rail). You can get an aftermarket fuel rail and use them if you would like, or you can sell them to some 7M owner, and get a set of USDM 2JZ...

I wired mine into my dash lights so I can turn them off with the column if I want to.

1JZ and 2JZ oil pans are the same. Where's it leaking from? There's no gasket on teh pan per-se, just sealant, which can be re-sealed. If it is cracked, it may be cheaper to have a shop weld it back up. You can get a new pan at a dealership though, just ask for one from a 94 Supra twin turbo...

Yeah, I rebuilt my bottom end in my car :), hence my signature.

I know GT4 can save pics to a USB key, can it save replays too?

Is there something wrong with OEM bearings that I don't know about?

Don't get started on the RHD vs LHD debate. :nono: From what I see regarding "JDM yellow" fogs, yes, it's a yellow insert around the bulb, however 99% of the time on MKIIIs, they're taken out, and the car's rewired to run the fogs with the headlights off.

Took me like an hour and a half to change an igniter on one once. You have to remove the entire intake system just to get at it :nono:

what's happening with the last GB? I lost the thread link, and wanted to know when I'm getting my lights :)

They won't work work a short throw shifter. The shifter pivot is not in the stock location. The bottom bushing will work, but the ball seat won't I will agree with you though, they are awesome for stock shifters. I run them in my Celica, and ran them in my MKIII before I got a short shifter.

I know of a couple 2JZs around here doing 8k with no problems on stock valvetrain. This is with <20psi boost though.

IT'S NOT THAT BAD! Yes, you need to undo your motor mounts, and raise your motor up a few inches (or as far as it will go), but it's not THAT bad. You CAN actually do it without raising the motor, but i's way more trouble than it's worth. Raise it up, and be happy. You can actually remove...

Edit: D'oh, I was wrong. I'll take this down so not to spread mis-information.

I never change the oil when I swap turbos, I don't see the need for it. Of course, I change the oil a lot for other reasons. Getting those oil drains off is kind of a bitch. For the back bolts on the y-pipe that you can't get off, what I did was take a tiny 12mm wrench, and bent the box-end at...

I'm 95% sure the plate they mount on is the same too.

15.1 isn't that bad. With some practise, you could get that down to a mid 14 second run.

I did 13.6@103 in my Supra, but there are a lot of things against me (my bad driving, bad track, bad altitude)