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If you're talking about the ECU water temp sensor, its a closed loop and doesn't ground through the engine. The Gauge sensor does ground through the engine though.

No, your map sensor is bolted to the intake manifold on the 2jz. You can see it in your pics.

Unless your engine is majorly fubar'd (barely runs its so bad) then its not rod knock. After hard pulls my injectors were always louder the normal on my cars. Also its probably just valve lash if anything mechanical. On my cars I had 2 pulleys seperate and they just squeeled and didn't knock...

Wow thats extreme. A realistic number is 5k for a 2jz swap. 2000-2500 for the engine 400 for the bellhousing 350 for the flywheel 600 for the clutch 400 for gasket set 150 for waterpump 100 for timing belt stuff (belt & tensioner) 150 for motor mounts 250 for a dp and some sort...

First one is a VSV for the Intake valve for the sequential. iirc (or the boost solenoid, but i think thats in the picture). If the other ones are all tied together (looks like it from the pics) they're for the stock auto transmission.

hahahaha, i found the story funny cause im a fat red head kid named justin.. :rofl:

What does the stock ecu do with the fuel pump trigger to the fuel pump ecu? does it give a constant 12v signal? does it give a ground? I havn't tested it, not do any of the manuals I've looked at say anything. Once we figure that out we can figure out how to get around it.

it may of peaked that high, but the stock ecu wont run that high. I've had my bone stock 91 7m (read 6400 rpm rev limiter) read 7200 on a afc.

Wow, a very helpful user on this board. :icon_roll I sent you a PM, but Te1(pin 19) and Te2(pin 20) connect from the ecu 'A' connector to IK1-E7(Te1) and IK1-F4 (Te2). http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p227/tissimo91t/Misc/Aristo%20Wiring/DSC_0086.jpg for aristo big body connector labeling.

I have a 40 trim (iirc, i measured the wheel and I think thats what it was) t3/t4 turbo from a turbo kit I bought off a 5sfe. I was thinking of throwing on my black alltrac instead of my stock turbo for a bit more power (mainly just to hold boost better). I havn't heard anything about this turbo...

looks like any other show car?

I thought I was curred after selling off the supras, but nope... I bought another alltrac. This one was in my back yard and too good to pass up. Its a 92 alltrac (1 of 271 in 92). It runs-ish, hahah. It has some timing belt/cam problem at the moment.. But the good news, it has AEM EMS...

yea, it was rather pussy in strength seeing as the afternoon thunder stroms pack 40-50 mph gusts and sometimes as much as 12-15" of rainfall an hour (only last like 20-30 minutes though), but this bitch sat around for 48+ hours pouring on us..

If you follow the RPM1 and RPM2 wires they go from the ecu to the ignitor, so they're directly off the ignitor.

It helps the stock valve operate. Without it you will experience some surge. IIRC it keeps the pressure on the bottom of the valve and assists the vacuum to pull it open. Without it the vacuum alone has to overcome the spring by its self, and acts slower. A generic 1 way valve will work fine.

Worth a shot maybe? On the 3sgte there are limited vacuum ports so the one I tried was T'd off a couple times all ready and just wasn't strong enough. The 1jz has several vac ports off the Intake manifold, so try to use the larger vacuum port and size it down (if needed) right before the BOV its...

Without the M1 connected you will not have speedcut. The speed signal comes from the speedo through the M1 to the ecu. The rev limiter is actually 7500rpms.

I used a set similar to that on my old 2jz swapped 91 car. and they worked fine. Just be sure to check the rotors every so often for cracks as the drilled rotor will eventually crack.

You might need a stronger (bigger) vacuum source. On my alltrac, the tial wouldn't open hardly at all until I tapped into the Brake booster vac line and T'd it to the Tial, it opens just by reving the car now.

I used IGF/rpm1 for the rpm.. I never hooked up the knock sensor, but I would go for # 1.