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No -i cant make it to the meet. I am moving down to SoCal this month. I dont have time to play.

Yeah - middle hole. www.cygnusx1.net will tell you everything you need to know.

I will post some pictures on my next day off. Probably tomorrow

Because I didnt take pictures of the progress. I guess you can take it for what it is worth.

Yeah I tinted all of my side markers and turn signals too. Everything looks brand new.

To get off the old clear you could probably just use some automotive paint solvent or aircraft paint stripper. I would avoid physical means like sandblasting because you will have to polish it again. I got the Glisten PC at the local auto paint store. Just call around...

I use Glisten PC by POR15. It is a catalyzed clear coat that wont yellow. It is specifically used for polished metal surfaces to include chrome.

Yeah - I saw that a long time ago but it is an inferior product. They do not use a catalyzed clear coat. It will not last as long. Also, using a real clear coat will fill in the cracks, chips and imperfections you get with older taillights, and you can wet sand/buff if it ever gets scratched.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THESE CHEMICALS WITHOUT AN APPROPRIATE RESPIRATOR AND ADEQUATE VENTILATION. THEY CAN KILL YOU. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE RECOMMENDATION OF THE CLEAR COAT MANUFACTURER. APPROPRIATE EQUIPMENT IS REALLY NOT THAT EXPENSIVE SO JUST SPEND THE MONEY AND QUIT BEING A CHEAP ASS...

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THESE CHEMICALS WITHOUT AN APPROPRIATE RESPIRATOR AND ADEQUATE VENTILATION. THEY CAN KILL YOU. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE RECOMMENDATION OF THE CLEAR COAT MANUFACTURER. APPROPRIATE EQUIPMENT IS REALLY NOT THAT EXPENSIVE SO JUST SPEND THE MONEY AND QUIT BEING A CHEAP ASS...

I went back out today and played around with the crank inector settings. Still wont start. This is frustrating because it was running the other day and now it wont fire. It acts like it wants to start but it wont go - it just backfires. I thought that I should verify the timing again just to...

The crank injector time is at 100 - that seems to be where it likes to start. Are you taking into account the micro sec bit? Mine is at 80 And it only backfires when trying to start. Not when running

I dont think you would even need to bore it and such. I would seriously consider just getting a used GE block and looking at the cylinder walls before you throw it in. A lot of people are making big power with that bottom end and no modification.

Or you could get a 2jzge block and throw it under your 1j head with a custom cometic head gasket...

You arent adjusting your AFR with that gauge are you?

Get a GT series turbo. I got my GT42 brand new for 1200 with a 1.01 hot side.

Your brake booster is just a big diaphragm that uses engine vacuum to give you a bit of mechanical advantage and make it easier to press the brake. I think its fine. Before I install a master cylinder I will do a bench bleed but you will probably be OK. Just manually pull the brake pedal back...

Props to suprageezer and doward for following through with this. I will certainly purchase a set as well.

he's probably going to have to go with a Cometic gasket to get the right CR

Sounds good man - Im sure you will have it up and running in no time.