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i finally figured out what was making so much noise on the front right side of the car. i thought it was something in the suspension, well, when i changed the brakes, i noticed it was the caliper. it's really loose, and moves around a lot. the bolt is there and tight, but the bushing, or...

i love these wheels. i want something just like them when i paint my supra black.

i think it's more of a pain to change the plugs on a jz engine than the 7M. i had no problem working on it. at least the waterpump isn't all gay where you have to take off the timing belt to change it.

dumbest thing i ever did selling this car

what i've found polishing my wheels. using a flap wheel first, then a nylon brush thing. both are used with a drill. keep using the nylon thing until it starts to get shiny. you will start to see your reflection in it. then apply some mag wheel polish, i forget what i used... and sand the part...

well, i just went to toyota... it would cost $120 to replace the e-brakes. i also got a diagram from them on where the links are that i am to tighten. i also scored a free TRD license plate.... only cause i go there so much and spend a lot of money.

fuel cut is what you're experiencing.... check your wastegate, vacuum lines and check for boost leaks.

i think there's more than 5 screws holding it in. like 5 or so up top. a couple where the steering column is. then 2 tabs behind the cover where the AC contoller is and where the switches are for the cruise and fog lights

man that sucks. i had somewhat bad luck the night before i sold my car. took a guy for a quick drive and started boosting, it spiked over 20 and the engine just shutdown. would not start. i got out to check everything, nothing seemed out of place. got in and it started right up. needless to say...

i'm replacing all the brakes on my car and my e-brake does not work at all. when i pull the handle all the way up it finally stops the car from rolling. so i figure it needs replaced too. but i went to get all the brakes, the only ones listed are the front and rear pads. no e-brake shoes. i...

it was the Boost Cut Controller. not a boost controller. i was using a MBC at the time. since you're in GA, there is a shop called AAP Motorsports in suwanne. not sure if i spelled that right. they have a lot of 2jz stuff, might want to see them. www.aapmotorsports.com

i used me the greddy bcc. i had a 2jz though. worked great. got me up to 20 psi, that's as much as i wanted to go with the setup i had.

i wonder if replacing it with ss braided line would be the best route. it would cost more, but more reliable. i thought i almost ruined mine when i put in the walbro. luckily when i bent it back it looked fine

is that the little cap that goes on the ball at the end of the shifter? mine didn't have one for the longest time, when i finally took it out to replace the bushings with the green one, that's when i noticed. shifting will be a little crappy, that's about it

i just ened up taking all that out, capping off the ends where the coolant enters and exits. always a pain to get those hoses screwed tight

sorry off topic, but those honda stickers are cracking me up. like i can't tell you have a honda, i can hear the damn thing a mile away, yet it takes an hour to get to me.....

whatever doesn't look good, and just pisses you off, puta APC sticker there, instant cool and HP.

my speedomoter cable was broken for a while, but she had over 200k, oh, 87...which is not mine anymore,

is this a 2jz or a 1jz? there are a few things i can think of if it's a 2jz were dealing with.

why would you part it out? restore it and drive it! it's RHD