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Whats there to translate? all the important stuff is english or universal symbol. what's your question? and yeh its like supra. theres no maf stuff and tha is in manifold.

oh it looks like you have the newer type motor with the bigger threads in the oil sender. It's that one right in front of the oil filter with the one wire connector. They aren't 1/8 bspt like most toyota. I had one of these and iirc it was like 10x1.25. I was just saying go to hydro shop for...

Nah its on the block behind the ac compressor. Normally the sender for the warning light is there. Do you have a decent hydraulic shop in your city?

never bothered is there a kit? I usually get one from some junk lexus or whatever.

yes it is. On GE theres a plug in the block you can unscrew and put that return fitting in. I've done this many times. Are you saying your GE doesn't have that?

yeah just use some flat stock and drill holes. There's plenty of threaded holes inthe mani for it to attach :)

Yeah those are coolant lines through the oil housing. A ge block has them you just have to change a plug with the pipe. For oil I just tee off from the oil pressure sensor port with a -4an. The threads in the block are 1/8 bspt which is easy to adapt then run a line right around the front of the...

I hear ya on the specialty parts thing. That's the only real consideration

Yeah and Im sure with e85 it would be interesting. Anyone know the C:R on fse? Also wiring isn't an issue. That should never stop anyone!

iirc the DI motors run stupid high fuel pressure. I'm sure making new lines would be a good idea. This is a cool idea. Direct injection is rad. Same power as regular GE but hella gas mileage! LIKE PRIUS GAS MILEAGE HAHA.

okay so like I was saying the obd2 ge has a weird crank trigger with extra missing teeth at an odd angle. Use the older TT crank gear for 12-0 and the cam sensor for return trigger. Didn't we already cover this?

arp I usually do about 90 on arp.

sorry I took locker out of context. yeah i dont know.

With bigger than stock exhaust it's gonna be all over boost cut. I recommend a bcc/fcd or whatever. Staying just under boost cut is pretty tough esp when even cold weather will put you over.It sucks! Here's one totally stock with 3" dp and fcd no boost controller or anything! Same car with...

probably because it's all comon sense :)

most of the time I get 310+ at 14psi. That just fcd and downpipe. It's a good deal for stock.

usually about 300

kaaz and trd are both easy to get. Should be in the $1000 range.

haha fuel trim man. Check voltage/resistances at all your major modifiers. o2, temp, throttle, map. I've also seen this when people wire in power to the sta terminal. Cranking is a major one!

resistance at thw and e2?