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fpr vacuum signal?

I've had this happen with no igf. But yeah itf they have no power on them that's probably it. But then again this guy is in a forum asking basic questions so ya never know. Hey dude you got a pulse on IGF? If the ecu sees no spark confirmation it'll fire sparks blindly but will shut off the...

Yeah it sure does. How well is the motor grounded? And have you checked the resistance in that relay when it's closed? I've seen shitty relays pull the voltage down 2v before. So that relay you put in was shutting down +b right? And yeah pfc doesnt like to save with low volt. Remember the ecu...

well if the ecu sees igsw turn off and +b goes off too it's like wtf? It needs it to hang to move setting from ram to rom. So with switch it's have to be key off, then wait a sec and turn +b off. But it might also need to see the ground from the relay coil. By hook it up I meant exactly like...

odds are low. Just do me a favor and try hooking it all up correctly. It might be due to the igsw being tied to +b. Think about the "if/then" of all 4 power circuits. PFC is picky as hell with that. The stock ecu will always behave normally as long as batt is on. If this doesn't work just try...

You're right but mrel should be hanging open for a sec after you shut the key off. When the igsw goes off the ecu hangs it open with power from batt. Now I've wired many pfc into many cars that aren't supposed to have it and I've seen burnt out mrel circuit before. I even got it to save. Before...

yeah the mrel needs to be right. So it's like this. The ecu sees a voltage input on IGSW, it then sends power out of mrel to close the main relay. The main relay jumps power from the battery to +b. I've seen some ecu where mrel stops working. with stock ecu it's no big deal but pfc is picky. Is...

I would use stock HG man. It's a good gasket even with high power but head studs are a must. And my favorite tuning box lately is aem series 2. It's cheap and works well. What about bearings and stuff?

its not 57 quick but it's pretty good. On my 400whp I had stock ecu, 550s, safc2, hks gt30, 2j cam. I was doing some pretty aggressive stuff with that. Pulling a lot in the middle for retarded torque and running like 12.5:1 AFR AT 1.4 BAR. I was pulling correction so hard I didn't need a bcc...

well 450 is gonna be tough like that. For 450 go 60-1. Personally I'd rather have 400 with big power band.

Yeah I've had over 400whp on stock ecu with just 92 octane. It sounds like you're looking for big powerband which is awesome. Go get a 57 trim t3/t4 or gt3076 kinda deal. Shouldn't fall off up top for 400hp. Like he said the driftmotion kit is great for this level. Standalone isn't required but...

I've seen 330whp@16 with 550s and 2j cam. It all depends on how agressive you get with that safc. Run good gas with more fuel pressure and it gets all boss. Fwiw I try not to exceed -18% correction until I get over 5000 rpm. 13-15psi You'll be over 300 for sure maybe 310+ but why stop there...

yeah yeah totally. Maybe q16 and max them DI out? 300whp would be cool. And yeah a dyno chart that looks like a boost comp map would rule:)

yah for sure on the aftermarket. I'm operating under the assumption there is none. And as for running out, How much can they possibly flow before you have to start spraying in from an outside source? As for the CR causing a prob you could always use better fuel in the port injectors that should...

not at all. Once those stock injectors are out of fuel what else can ya do? Also it'd be a good way to understand the tuning differences. You could go from port to DI at will. This would get it going fast and be a great learning tool. You should take full advantage of your hard work. Be the guy...

Yeah the head is way different. Itd be pretty easy to use port injection for boost. I'm sure it uses th normal g1, g2, ne stuff for ignition. And it looks to have smart coils with 5v trigger like 1zz, ls1 etc. Wiring everything seems like it'd be simple its just the fuel tuning aspect that's...

no thats exactly it. Sorry I think we misunderstood each other. Anyhow,

nah the stock turbo hardlines go into the block on the exh side. btw, dbb=ball journal=regular turbo. I got some pics coming.

for dbb i usually use a -3an or -4an for journal. -4 is okay either way with the proper restrictor on a dbb. I'll try to take a pic of mine. brb

did you put the two bolts in the top after you took out the resovoir?