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It's just a clamp.

Ive had good results with bosch 044 with the sock conversion in the tank. That with -6 lines should easily handle it. I've made over 450 in my personal car (420 daily) with just a single walbro and stock rail with stock lines. Hope that helps.

Yeah jdm are all saturated injector. fwiw I've made over 380whp on a stock 7mge pump with no pressure drop at all. Just watch afr and fp. It'll either flow enough or it wont. I think you're fine. Talking about walbros and inline pumps for a stock engine is just retarded.

LS would be awesome. Just sayin. I'd wire it up for ya.

sure does! just make sure you have the right injectors and maf.

Cressida people just hate 7m it's nothing personal. To them a 7m is a piece of shit regardless of how built it is. But you should come back its a good forum.

Yeah we are a bunch of assholes. It's important to our sense of identity lol. So wait you're working on a cressida? GS brackets aren't even close. try xcessive manufacturing. And after you make your car cool you should try jzxp again. We're the best we just hate noobs.

I used to make them. Might have one laying around.

Yeah it's not much of a problem. I'd grab the gas pedal and position sensor. You get this from a yard or what? Standalone/cable tb would be hella better

I have a spare one :)

Nope. It has an external ground wire so the plug is different. You can use a later 7m one though.

Bad sensor data? Check all the sensors out. I'd start with coolant temp and o2. e1 is ground for the diag box.

e2 is sensor ground(not chassis ground) for tps/map/coolant temp/air temp. The dotted lines are for shields.

Crank trigger wheel is attached to the timing gear behind the crank pulley. It's worth a look really. I weld them on now so they don't slip.

Yeah I'd double check that e2 is hooked up correctly. Also I've had this sort of thing happen when the crank trigger wheel shift or is bent. At a certain rpm the car will change. Have you put on a timing light and watched when you rev it? The last car I looked at that had the wheel spun a little...

I'll just post here. All the ignition stuff is the same on all the TT 1/2j so use whatever. iirc I used a 5v pullup on my spark outs. It's been a LONG time.

U can use the same signal specs on the cam/crank. iirc the rear cas is 70deg btdc. Use the crank trigger wheel from an earlier 1j/2j turbo. This is the 12-0 you need. If you're gonna run wasted you can just make a missing tooth on the crank wheel and use just that one vr sensor. But if you do...

Well I think the easiest way in this case would be remove the last tooth btdc from the crank wheel (from a 12 tooth tt one) and run wasted. Or use 12-0 and second trigger for return to do sequential. This motor you have, It should have a g1 and g2 in the dist. You can use generic wheel decoder...

Nope. 1j non vvti is 12-0 on the crank and 2 g sensor. vvtli (na and turbo) has missing teeth and a single g sensor. Are you srsly running MS on it?

With big exhaust yes. As for speed, cut the damned wire lol.