oil pump is any turbo jz so just use the pump and lower timing gear from the 1j. timing belt is any 2j . Sprry forgot to mention. I just say change piston becuase its cheap/easy. You could do the thick head gasket thing but they are $$$.
the smaller the injector the more control you're gonna have at low load. prioritize the floor not the ceiling. it sounds like you had your mind made up already. just sayin.
usually somewhere in the 600's. It really about keeping you pressure from being too high. If you have so much pump that it's jumping like 2:1 under boost and stuff then yeah get a bigger line. If regualtor is staying 1:1 and you can get it down where you need it then yeah it's fine.
Short...
Well you really just need the sc body pinout. Do you still have your old harness? It's all in there. Or you can get crackin and figure it out.
Or you can be lazy and get this...
It's apples and oranges man. The advice I usually give. Do the least amount of stuff possible to achieve what you want. Keep the setup as simple as you can. And count on stuff breaking so make it easy to work on. Everything WILL break so don't bury it and make sure it's easy to get new parts...
for piggyback i just tune wth a wbo2 by looking at it. and on most good dynos you can log afr. ive been using aem 1050 an 6050 on jz a lot. they are cheap and awesome
Well if you have spark then the ecu will have enough info to fire injectors. The only requirement to get injector signal on top of spark is IGF pulse and sta/nsw.
I'm only gonna say IGF one more time. Check the wire. If the ecu doesnt see the confirmation IGF signal it doesn't turn on the injectors. Seriously check continuity from the igniter to the ecu. If it's good check for a pulse on it. No pulse is probably bad igniter or possibly ecu but I seriously...
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