Search results

I like it. But, I also used to own an Omni...

Very Nice! Was the tach swap a plug and play thing?

Let me know when you're headed to PIR. We might clutter the track with two MKIII's. ;)

Yep. They turn just like stock ones do. ;) The ones you can't turn are drilled rotors.

I'm glad I ordered two lower ball joints because they were both bad. The passenger side was much worse... At this point, all of the stock struts are out, all four rotors off, both lower ball joints replaced, and the two front coilovers are installed. Here are the rotors. They are headed to...

The J-Tube will cause a cavitation with an upgraded pump. It sounds like that's the cause of the 'Dead Heading'. 90psi is a LOT if FP! Here's something for review: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=345 You'll want a gauge on the regulator.

Not holding pressure isn't good. Did they test it with or without the J-Tube attached? That's a fair price for a nice used one and a GREAT price for a brand new one! I mounted mine on the strut tower bar. It was easier than the firewall...

The reason I asked about the pump is because the J-Tube in stock form with an upgraded pump will cause fuel delivery problems. Since you've bypassed that, you should see an improvement in power potential and an even bigger improvement with tune-ability.

Ha ha... No that particular night, I couldn't sleep and had to work the early shift at work. ;) ^FACT! :biglaugh:

Are you running a Walbro Pump?

No shots yet. I will be dropping my rotors off for turning on Monday and then I have to take my wheels down to have my spare tires mounted up and will also be running my meth line with the fuel lines so I'll need access to the underside. So unfortunately, it'll be a little while before she's...

I am with you on the afr's. I tend to stay cautious. It's better to be rich and retarded than lean and broke. ;) Plus, IMO there isn't enough power gain to merit pushing the envelope. Not for the average owner anyway... I realize that tuning with a mixture of fuels will be different than...

Here's a shot of the bad lower ball joint next to a new one. The boot on the old one wasn't torn; but, it was dry. As in no grease inside. Hence my occasional clunking noise. I forgot to include the tools used to remove it; but, I used a can of WD40, Hammer, Pry Bar, and a Puller. And...

Also, you MUST re-time the engine after you time the cams.

Now this is funny!

It's all good. I got the passenger side one off last night. It wasn't that bad. I'll post up pics of my tool aresenal tonight when I get home from work. The new one is installed and torqued. :)

I'd LOVE to replace everything at once; but, being that I'm still trying to recover from Christmas, I'll settle for just the lower ball joints. ;) I hope so. Honestly, my concern is it being too stiff of a ride. Which is why I didn't get the pillow ball mounts. But, yeah....I can't wait...

Nice kill man! :)

Thanks for posting Nosechunks. It's great to hear from someone that's been down this road already... My thought is that it isn't possible for the average Water/Meth user to know or calculate how much of each fuel is being burned. There are too many variables and the proper equipment and dyno...

That is a big change Mike! Good luck brutha! You have a PM. ;)