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Did you check the wiring from the injectors to the ECU for continuity? There is not a safety thing that you speak of. The fuel pump is energized when the key is in start through the COR relay, its hard wired. Once you release the key if you have airflow the FP stays energized.

Code 22 will cause hard cold starting since it fail safes to 80C coolant temperature. BUT, it would not cause the injectors to not fire, and the engine will run, just poorly when cold.

Not much left to test. Check for continuity from injector -ve side to ECU connector. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=46

Areas prone to ruse are the rear wheel arches especially around the shock tower, and the spare tire well in the hatch. You would be better off focusing on those two areas than spraying the underside. Best thing to do is pull the inside trim out of the hatch area and inspect the rear arches. Rust...

Ahh, good point. That would rule out any grounding issues too. Then fuel pressure would be next on the list. I know my pump froze after sitting for 4 months.

Do you have spark? Easiest test is to pull the CPS, and with the ignition on spin it by hand while checking for spark at one of the plugs.

Dan, we are talking maximum power here, so the field current is maxed out and not an issue. To get more current you need a thicker wire, and to maintain the voltage you need the same number of windings, ergo more volume consumed. You can't buy your way out of that one unless you plan on using...

If the alternator stays the same size, more amps = less voltage at a given shaft speed. No way around it. Then there's the car wiring to the alternator.... what current do you think its designed for?

How do you know the switch is bad?

Sensorless ECU. Uses only a magic 8 ball and Ouija board.

Why does the OP think this is fine?

Not exactly sure what a skip is, but start by checking the VSV for the fuel pressure up circuit. Make sure that valve does not stick open when energized and hot.

Plastigage them and then make your decision.

Because they wear badly, especially towards the rear where oiling is the weakest.

Check the cam bearing saddles in the head. They will need some work most likely.

2JZ-GTE has a heated intake, if anyone cares.....

He figured you were conversant in the Joule–Thomson effect.

Why not wait for the LED 5x7s to drop in price and improve in performance. They seem to be maturing very quickly. http://www.partdeal.com/truck-lite-rectangular-led-5x7-truck-headlamp-27450c.html http://www.tlg-auto.com/JW_Speaker_8900_7x6_Headlights_p/led-8900.htm

Most of the temperature issues are from the compressor itself. At 18 psi boost pressure and 80F ambient temp 75% compressor efficiency, the output from the compressor is 287F. At that point, your intake pipes are cooling the charge! The IC assuming decent efficiency can get that down to maybe...

Pressure goes up as you lose vacuum. This thread is frustrating. I mean based on the posted data the rail was clearly clogged. Next post the fuel filter is replaced and the rail clog vanishes. Umm, how is that possible?