It is possible for the injector top of cylinder #6 to hit the pulsation damper threads protruding inside the rail as the two are aligned top of each other inside the rail. This can form a nice blockage. As said above, the injector grommets set the depth of the injector in the rail along with...
With the engine off there is no fuel demand, all the injectors are off. You could try energizing an injector with the engine off and FP/B+ bridged to see if fuel pressure drops.
Symptoms support a blocked fuel line. Seems like any fuel demand results in low pressure. Next step is to check fuel filter, fuel pump, FPR, and lines for crimps and blockage.
Since it is not working with the toyota control unit either, plug the stock controller back in and diagnose using the TSRM.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=15
10-20mA is normal so parasitic current draw seems fine. Your problem is likely the battery or the cables. When cranking, measure the voltage at the battery terminals. That will tell you whether it is the battery or the cables.
The voltage regulator internal to the ECU will operate properly with only 7V battery voltage, and the injector calibration table goes down to 6V, but I wouldn't know if the car would actually run with voltages that low. 6V is definitely not going to work, but 7V might. But as JJ says, it...
Whoaa, let's not make up things here.
The CSI switch turns on the cold start injector. This is only engaged during cranking. The CSI control the duration of the CSI operation during cranking, and repeated start attempts to avoid flooding and the like. The ECU also can turn on the CSI, but...
6 posts to determine fuse != relay. Oh well....
Reread the first post and realized I missed the key point that fuel pressure drops after 5-10s. As asked in post #25.
You should read the base fuel pressure of 36psi when doing the above test with engine not running, and it should hold...
Most multimeter have a Hz function to measure frequency. Looking at the Kv signal, you should see 15-30 Hz at hot idle, and the frequency should ramp up with more load in a predictable way. If you have a piggyback like an SAFC, it will also show the Kv frequency.
If all you have is a code 24 then it is not the source of your problem, as it should be close enough to run okay with the default value for air temp.
The concern would be that the AFM signal is also bad since they share the same sensor body and wiring. If code 34 is set (bad AFM) the car will...
Doing it the way you did, you set the FP about 10psi too high most likely assuming you had some intake vacuum. You have to fix code 24. It will default to 20C, but it usually means the AFM wiring is bad too.
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