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Well 400-700 Hz at cold idle seems high, but that does not necessarily mean the AFM is bad since we have no idea how your engine is running. You need to test a known stable condition like hot idle. Also, you have not answered a critical question. Are you getting a code 34 at 3500 rpm per...

This writeup is correct, but leaves the relay connection a bit vague. http://the-ish.com/supra/?p=13 I would clarify by saying connect the red-black wire of the fog relay to the 15A Cig circuit (Blue with red stripe) in the left kick panel if you want the fogs to behave like DRLs.

So no code 34 and you are not hitting fuel cut at 3500 rpm.

That link has you cutting the 15A fog light circuit that's dedicated to powering the fogs and replacing it with the TAIL circuit, which was not designed for a 110W fog light load. There's more, but that's the worst of it.

For the lexus afm you should see 17 to 20 Hz at 650rpm hot idle. 900 rpm light load should see 30 Hz. Flat freeway at 65mph 2500rpm light throttle cruise 130-200 Hz. These numbers are approximate, but should help determine if you are close.

Do you really hit fuel cut at 3500 rpm (viz. code 34 is stored)? If so, the only way to hit fuel cut is to exceed the allowed air flow into the engine. That eliminates injectors, fuel leaks, and other fuel stuff. Just saying...

It does indeed, and quite clearly.

Thanks for your help on getting us the ECU Reynald. Happy New Year!

Fun indeed! I always thought the ECU IGT signal set dwell since they take some care to make it happen 30/60 degrees before the firing signal, but clearly it is not working that way. Would be good to pull apart an ignitor and map out the circuitry.

I wired my relay coil to an ignition switched 12V supply. That way, the fogs go off with the ignition. The link above is crazy. I would not follow that advice (grounding pin2 of the relay and tapping into the defog power wire???).

Was able to read the code in an ECU from France and found it to be mostly identical to USDM code, except for ignition timing which is significantly more advanced for low load/low rpm region. Likely due to higher minimum fuel octane (92 vs 87 AKI). Plots are show below comparing the two. US...

That just checks the air temp sensor. To verify AFM operation you need to measure the frequency (Hz) of KS during operation and compare to normal values. Not all meters can ready frequency, usually only on higher end meters.

Disconnect the two wire ECU temp sensor connector at the water neck and the ECU will default to 80C (normal operating temp). That will quickly isolate if you have an issue with the temp sensor as a warm engine will run very close to normal like that.

Stainless steel with nickel anti-seize is your best bet.

It is theoretically impossible to drop more than 14.7 psi, so I would suspect you have a gauge problem, (or boost at idle). As JJ said, the only sensor that can cause this condition is the AFM. The other possibility is the injectors either because of high pressure or the injectors themselves...

J-tube delete? The open-air BOV has to go too.

I had the 18s before the springs, so it is probably the combination of the two plus the Illuminas are a little stiffer too.

The ride is a bit stiffer than stock, but since this car never had a comfy ride in the first place, the difference is not that big. The one area I would say it is noticeably worse if across road seams where it does seem pretty jarring. The BBK is Sethron's kit with IS-F rotors and LS400 4 pot...

Eibachs are supposedly (Front): 1.5 in = 38 mm (Rear): 1.0 in = 25 mm which is bigger than the GF10s. I'd take all of these with a grain of salt though.