Search results

I call BS. Just look at the datasheet for the dual SPAL 12". Current draw is 40 to 48 Amps depending on the static pressure. Factoring in the typical 55% efficiency of the Supra era alternator and you are sucking nearly 2hp off the crank to keep that thing spinning, not to mention consuming...

Is it really noticeable black ick after a few weeks, or less conspicuous? I guess I should just try them out for myself. They seem to be well liked by everyone.

How much dust with the EBC yellows?

Only if its leaking.

Many consider it to be the very worst job to do on this car. Here is one link. Unlike the A/C evap, you cannot short cut the removal process. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-84104.html

Could be any of the front seals, CPS o-ring (or internal seal), or the cam covers. You really need to clean the engine than use some fluorescent die and a blacklight to find the source. CPS O-ring tends to be a high-failure item, but these cars are so old now you probably have multiple leaks.

In a Volvo or a Supra?

JJ said that because the AFM cannot produce anything over 3000 Hz, so a reading of 16000Hz suggests measurement error. It was quite logical.

16711-42060 upper piece 2-hole $87.76 16702-42010 lower piece $31.76

Do you have the CO and O2 numbers like your first post?

Unfortunately even JJ won't be able to provide that link as replacing the heater core is not in the TSRM! :eek2:

Does overtightened mean greater than the recommended 36ft-lbs, or is it a problem even using the recommended torque?

CA does not exempt any cars made after 1976, so we are stuck with emission testing forever. That said, CA is actually not that strict on the testing, depending on which county you live in you may not need a biennial smog check, and the check is a much simpler two speed dyno test compared to...

Do you have a stock downpipe? It has a precat that will help reduce those numbers. Also, I would suggest running on the freeway for 30 minutes prior to the test. That will purge the evap cannister and help you a little. Since you're close, it might just be enough to pass. Doesn't help that the...

The fan sensors are just switches, either on or off. Hooking them to your gauge is not helpful. Just measure the resistance across the two prongs of the Ecu sensor and compare to the graph. You will know right away if it is hot. Jon

Read the resistance on the ECU sender (two prong one) beside the gauge sender and see if it is reading hot too. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=113

The TCCS knock sensor when it detects knock will react and retard timing on the next ignition event. It is very good. It also learns what knock retard works best for different conditions and applies that immediately. That's one reason why the piggybacks don't blow up motors.

I agree. It seems the sender is bad. Buy a Toyota one, they are not that expensive.

On a 40degF cold start the car will be in closed loop in under a minute. It will still be adding more fuel to the model, but it will be maintaining stoichiometric operation.

You can do it with my daughterboard for the stock ecu. Unfortunately, I haven't got my act together and made them available to the community yet. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?73379-3P-s-TCCS-Disassembly-Analysis&p=1746894&viewfull=1#post1746894