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No. it has a banjo bolt. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=1603&P=2 no 862818 on the bottom right. right above the the hard pipe that goes around the block. http://www.geocities.ws/aarongarney/gtedrainpressure.jpg be the one on the right.

To a metal line under the t stat housing. Metal line has a banjo bolt.

If the bulbs are good then you can pull the integration apart and see if its burnt.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=RA&P=26 Have to bang it off with a small slide hammer. Its not just going to slide right off.

Just loop the lines.

NO.

Imo your doing all the work to get in there might as well replace them if you are unsure of when they were last changed.

You could loosen the top and remove the lower but in order to replace the crank seal you have to removed the timing belt which it would be better to just remove the t stat housing.

sounds like the wire is being grounded some where. Try unplugging it and seeing if its still pegged.

The alarm switch in the drivers door lock is likely bad. Could also remove the factory alarm.

It has options for multi plex. but honestly your better off just making a new harness and using smart coils. much easier cleaner and better performing. for the cps you use the ne signal for the crank and one of the ge signals for the cam. then you can run full sequential or batch or what...

There should be a grommet. plastic is not going to seal against metal like that.

There is also q45 tps adapters iirc.

Ya thats a good bit smaller.

You can do a retorque. You basically just barely crack it loose and then retorque in the tightening sequence.

It actually runs hotter without egr. Its been proven with a temp gun.

You have 560s, lex, stock ecu and no egr and nothing to tune with.. what wideband are you using? also not sure why you decieded to just remove a wire from the o2. And yes it is possible to get a bad part right out of the box esp if its a cheap part.

Check the ecu for leaking caps. Then check the temp sensor. For fuel pump the soarer and chasers use fuel pump ecu's so ignore that one. 12 is prolly crank sensor.

It would be capicators. Diodes dont have anything to leak.

R154 will be the limiting factor not the 1j block. Block is strong and solid. R154 is iffy after 700 ft lb and a time bomb after 800. V160 would be better. And with a 3.58 rear end ratio would make it perfect for high reving and a closer ratio of a gears to go through.