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good luck and best wishes for a quick recovery! take care man!

so then why dont you tell where HE can get it from ;)

short runner...yes...long runner no

are you kidding? get an electrical one and do it that way.... they arent THAT expensive to go through the extra work and for it to have the chance to leak all in your cabin.... just saw your PS... oh well...GET AN ELECTRICAL ONE. :D

unless it holds that power steady ;) but yeah find out on the dyno where max hp is..... and shift around there.... however if you have a good cam setup and the power plateus then run it out :D

ah ok...thanks

lol.... now slow down.... if you just blew the headgasket and the bottom end wasnt knocking or anything then yeah sure just fix the hg and make sure you flush the hell out of the oil and cooling systems and fix it right and youll be fine. HOWEVER if you are going to rebuild anyways....you can...

is the ATI 6.5lbs with or without the AC ring? And if its with..how much lighter is it without?

well thats fine......just a lot of extra money for forged internals if youre only aiming to make power that the stock internals can handle like a walk in the park. thats all i was saying.

i added a few rather important things. also.....all that work and youre gonna use a ct? lol BIC dp is for a ct... on top of that 2mm hg with wiseco 9:1 pistons will (assuming your block and head havent been decked before and will need a "normal" size of material removed) will leave with...

thats a horrible comparison.... lets see 30-60k miles USED AND ABUSED engine that you dont know what youre getting or how badly its been neglected..... OR a freshly built you know exactly about every inch of it brand new 7m.... tough choice :nono:

yeah...it also adds a BIT more displacement... the stock bore is 83mm a .040 over would make it 84mm. its changes compression ratio and has the snowball type effect lol... but yes going 20 over is a good idea if you can in case you need to go back in for something later on

what? :nono: you know what the bolts ARE for? they are for the mechanics who like to take off the valve covers take out the stock bolts use a hoist and lift the head up just enough to slide the hg out from in between....then put a new one in and then use the bolts to torque it down....lol...

wow....thanks for the pointing that out! im gonna go check them out ...im hoping i can see them in person before buying...but look very nice!

what?! no "pimp black dash" or "used but in decent shape black shifter boot" in the build thread ;) looks like a solid buildup so far man... im jealous i want that ati dampner... do you know if it comes self balanced enough to stick it on a rotating assembly without having it all balanced...

stock....or worse .... you were probably looking at forged pistons..

you need to have the head resurfaced to use the mhg... and you SHOULD have the block decked also since you will have it apart.... then you can figure out what size you will need.... it will probably be the 1.4mm version.

update right now: BILL GOT SCREWED HARD BY THE MACHINE SHOP. SOOOOOOOOOOOOO.... as of right now the engine is out and disassembled and at ANOTHER (recommended by titan) machine shop to fix the damage the other machine shop did. It will be back together soon though.... for the record heres...

is there anything you did to the dash other then remove the vent on the passenger side?

i have to admit i :biglaugh: to your first comment lol..... i guess we will agree to disagree.....if the block isnt pitted, and is cleaned up VERY well.... and is checked for warpage and passes.... you shouldnt have a problem with the cometics. the aluminum head will warp and distort a HELL of...