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for the win Also, that kit isn't bad except for the rear bumper, which is pretty rediculous looking.

Well, the stock o2 is 3 wire. Your's must have been replaced at some point. That just means it has two ground wires instead of one. You can replace the o2 with any o2 sensor that has the same # or more wires than it and it'll still work.(well as long as you hook it up correctly)

Both, the maft-pro doesn't completely replace the ecu, so if you disconnect the regular o2 sensor it'll throw a code.

For tuning hit up XXtuning in wethersfield. http://www.xxtuning.com/

Northeast Auto Machine for the win. They built most of the 7m's in the state, including mine.

Willington, CT 06279

yeah you definitely have a boost leak, you should be seeing boost in the 2-3k rpm range on a stock car I don't really hit much boost in first either though, mostly because it seems like I run through it so fast.

The only frame failure i've ever seen on a mk3 was the rear subframe cracking.(Probably due to hard launches) Later supras (from 89 up or something) had reinforced rear subframes. Other than that mk3's are built like tanks.

Check the egr cooler too, that may be leaking and causing it to heat up back there. Not to be a doomsayer or anything, but how is your HG, high pressure in the cooling system will cause random hoses to blow even if they are new. That one in particular i've had problems with as well. My old...

Your referring to just the alternator belt right? If so, yeah, it pretty much has to be either a siezed water pump or alternator. Also, check your fan and make sure nothing is caught in it holding it in place, that might do it as well.

if you say the alternator belt they'll know what your talking about you can get it from toyota, napa, autozone... pretty much any auto store should have one that works.

you have to have the automatic harness, the manual one would be missing a couple of connectors necessary to control the transmission

the turbo, no boost dropoff between shifts:icon_bigg

Sometimes the gound in the housing goes bad and doesn't connect right and you just clean it up and tighten up the screws on it and the lights will work again. On my '87 though the dome lights quit and i just couldn't figure out what was wrong, turned out to be a break in the 12v line...

On an N/A though? why not? it's not like there's a hac sensor. If the plug fits I can't imagine it wouldn't work.

Definitely a good deal, the norm for them is about 600 + shipping. Btw: I think the illumina II's are way better than the blue ones (hp's). I've had both and the illumina II's last longer and don't have such a crummy ride.

Autometer gauges are actually pretty good besides the boost gauge, for some reason alot of them end up reading a bit off after a while.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Toyota-Supra-Turbo-567-hp-Very-Nice_W0QQitemZ4615989336QQcategoryZ6447QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I hate scammers.

water cools better than antifreeze, and you can run on straight water just fine as long as its warm enough that it has no chance of freezing

theres one pic of it here(along with a bunch of others): http://members.aol.com/akiraneo/kits.html