Assuming it doesn't rain on Saturday (although it's not looking too good ATM), Mike (foreverpsycotic) and I are planning on meeting up at the Darien rest stop on i95 at 8am. From there we're going to meet up with the NY guys.
Anyone interested in coming from CT and north is welcome to join us...
The car is fixed! It was the ECU after all, despite the fact it ran another 1jz. There was a very small amount of corrosion from before the capacitors were replaced which had leaked out and damaged a trace in the board. The moral of the story is: if you think your ECU is fine, you haven't looked...
Alright, so the ignitor is fine, the ecu is fine, the wiring is fine. I checked the wiring to the map sensor and it's fine too.
The car still does the same thing; the first time you go to start it it runs for a few seconds and then shuts off. After that it cranks, fires once, and quits.
Any...
Ok, so I am throwing a code 14 apparently. Which according to the MK4 info is ignitor, ecu, or the wiring in between. I checked the wiring and it's fine. So i'm down to 2 possibilities.
I should have been more clear, I don't have any codes. The CEL just came on because the engine had stalled.
Also, the engine will start sometimes, it just won't run for long. I should add that the problem also has progressively gotten worse. At first the car would run for a little while (10...
I'm going to change out the fuel filter. I'm pretty sure the pump is moving at least some fuel, because the first time you try and start it, it runs for a couple of seconds. After that it just cranks. I think enough fuel is able to get down the lines to start it when the pump primes, but not...
Well today my invincible 1JZ broke down. I was driving down the highway when the check engine light came on and the engine stalled, in gear at 65mph. Now it will run for a little while sometimes, and then stall out. Sometimes it won't start at all.
My guess is that it's a fuel problem. I had...
You were right in the first place, the return line is the soft line, the supply line is the one with the banjo fitting.
There should be a hardline which runs below the intake manifold and above the oil filter and terminates about 3/4 the way back along the engine. It runs horizontally. The...
On my old supra, I used aircraft remover to strip the existing rim paint, and then used duplicolor on them. I put on both the gunmetal and the clear rim paint. The first rim I did I made the mistake of using self-etching primer on it. The other three were just painted with the rim paint. After...
I'm pretty sure though that you just keep the yellow wire. I didn't change any wires on the 100A fusible link. If it's the wire I think you're referring to, that wire should be connected with the matching yellow wire coming from the EA2 connector on the 1JZ harness.
Just tuck it through the right spot in the firewall and you only have to lengthen 18-30 wires depending on options. It's not bad at all and sure beats the time it would take to lengthen the whole harness or the money it takes to buy the 935 harness.
Save yourself some trouble, do it this way:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36020
Just pull the whole thing out of the fusebox harness and swap it.
Another vote for NE Auto, had my 7m done there. They did a high quality job, and good prices too. The only negative is that sometimes they're really busy, so it might take a while to get your engine back depending on the kind of work you need done.
87t: sold it with 182k
88t : sold with 157k
89 : sold with 131k
90t: went to the junkyard with only 64k on the clock, had been totaled 2 times already
91tt: 178k and going
Uh...if you add them up I have 712k, I win!
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