No. The auto bellhousing doesn't bolt to the front of the r154. It also doesn't have any provisions to install the shift fork, or mount the slave cylinder.
The wiring on 89's is usually slightly different than all other years. Check the plugs in the glovebox area of your car and match them up to the pictures on the pdf's. The B1 connector is a big clue, the 88 style one has an additional row on the bottom of 3 pins.
Earlier you said it bogged when it was warmed up, now you're saying it stumbles when its cold, haha.
Check your ecu temp sensor maybe, on the upper water neck (the green two pin plug).
The sensor on the radiator is for the hydrofan and won't make a difference in the way your engine runs.
This is just a shot in the dark, but check to see if your intake air temp sensor on the intake manifold is any good. It works together with the map sensor to determine the amount of air coming into the engine. That might explain why it runs fine when cold.
It could definitely be your coils, have you swapped them out yet? When mine were cracked, the car would run fine at idle and then break up under boost.
Its been done, several times. I'm not a fan personally but to each their own. If you're open to suggestions, take a look at the Toyota 1UZ engine, it's a V8 and has lots of potential. Its also dirt cheap to buy.
If you swapped a JDM 2jz in there with the stock 440cc injectors, I doubt you will have a problem, since this is the same size as the 7mgte ones.
That said, throwing in an upgraded pump in can't hurt...
Yes, you need the whole water pump with the rear housing. When you buy a water pump from Toyota it comes with the housing and o-rings as well. If you look around, you can get a decent price on one from Toyota, my local Toyota is $133 for the whole assembly.
The easy way to test if the map sensor is any good is to unplug it. If there's no change then there's something wrong with it. On the map sensor, the brown wire is ground, blue with a black strip is positive voltage, and the light green wire w/black stripe is the output. Testing 5v from...
We're a little hesitant to leave as early this time as we did for the last meet. The meet was canceled long after we left CT, and we didn't know until we got to the racetrack.
We can stop there, but right now we're only meeting in manchester and new haven. So far no one from western CT has decided to join up.
We have at least 6 cars in our caravan as of now.
---------- Post added at 10:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:04 AM ----------
My cell is...
I'm not sure what you're asking, but if you wanted to run the 2jz wiring, you would have to do alot of work. You'd have to lengthen the harness and redo the body connectors. There are advantages to running the 2jz wiring though, you won't have to run batch injection and you can run the turbos in...
I had the profec B spec 2, I didn't like it. I'd get it all set up and it would work perfect that day, and the next day it would be hitting boost cut all over. Its a simple unit to use though and when it worked it worked well.
You can run the 2jz on the 1jz electronics. So, it wouldn't be difficult at all. Since you're already 1jz, you should have just about every part you need to drop in the 2jz. You would have to run it in true twin mode though, since the 1jz wiring has no provisions for the sequential turbo setup.
Yellow/blue is positive, Yellow/Red is ground, you have them backwards. Also, from what I've seen, wiring the solenoid to 12v does work, but it causes the solenoid and the hydrofan system to overheat. Also I believe the hydrofan ecu only uses up to 5v to open the solenoid, which could be part of...
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