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Well I had tried to get my fuel filter off once before a few years back...I could get the banjo bolt loosened but the other side I just couldn't get undone. I even took it to the dealership and they said they couldn't get it off. Tonight I decided I was going to try again. I doused both the...

I have a set of Braided Stainless steel oil lines for a CT-26. They are leftover from my 1/2 NA-T build, the return line has a slight indentation but it should be fine. I will sell them for $60.00 shipped if you are interested.

Good to know, thanks for checking it out...Guess I will do like you said and have a piece of sheet metal welded on so it covers it a bit. Better to do it right once! Later.

Will do, as I said before people have used the 12mm x 1.25 hole with adapters before with no problems. Just to name a few Dean Marcum and Therm on SF. Although it is not recommended to use such a small hole.

Nope, just no carbon right there.

Lol yes it is a typo I meant to say above the oil line.

Lol, no the chambers are not coated, that is just carbon, the head only had 15k on it since a full rebuild with 5 angle valve job so I didn't even pull the valves out when the machinist milled the head. He vacuum checked each valve before and after machining and hot tanking the head in aluminum...

What do you mean "did I have the CC's coated"? Combustion Chambers? The spot where the bung is welded is where the stock oil cooler return is plumbed to. So it will be above the oil level. I just drilled it out to be the same diameter as the new bung. The old hole was only 12mmx 1.25.

Got all my parts back from the machine shop. And got my oil pan back from having the -10an bung welded on the oil pan for my turbo oil return. Milled Head: Bored/Honed Block: Cracked Crank: Prepped/Resized Rods Oil Pan:

Could this be run with 7MGE electronics?

If he would of hot tanked it in the aluminum cleaner the frost plugs and bearings would have been fine. Just had mine done like that and the plugs came out fine...it is a bit more expensive though.

They got hot from underhood heat and if they are near the turbo at all they can melt. Spend the cash and get 3 or 5 ply silicone couplers from ATP.com or Hightempsilicone.com. Get some tbolt clamps while your at it.

Resurface the head, clean the block up, you shouldn't even have to take out the valves when its done if you just had a head job. Just make sure when the guy cleans it after machining he drops it in the aluminum cleaner. Later.

Head is more important than the block, I also believe it is a 25 ra for an HKS or similar MHG and 50 ra for the Cometic. Just make sure the block is clean without high or low spots, head should be like a babies ass, like Shaeff likes.

Well I went to pick up the block, head, and rods today, this is a breakdown of what I paid: Hot Tank Block: 98.00 Measure Pistons And Cylinders Remove Pistons from Rods Measure Crank Main and Rod Journals } 116.00 Measure Bore of Rod Ends Clean Crank, Rods, Other misc parts: 30.00...

Well with 40 years of experience I hope he knows how to mag a crank, I saw the cracks for myself after he took it off the machine and still had the light on. Later.

Hey I might be paying a pretty penny, but he is the only person I could find that had a solid reputation around here working on imports. Other guys around here build sick domestic engines but have fucked up my friends import rebuilds somehow.... Plus QWIK you can't knock him till you see his...

Thanks for the replies...just need to figure out what I want to do about the crank issue. I can buy a crank kit from some autostores around here for around 260.00 which have a warranty so if its cracked I could return it...or I could go all out for a new crank for 670.00 from Jay Marks...

Well I just got a call from my machine shop. It started off as "I hate to be the bearer of bad news but" The rest of our conversation continued..."Well I magnafluxed your crank and it is cracked in two places, one crack is in the 1st journal the second crack is on the 7th journal." Mind you the...

How about aeroquip hoses?