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People are telling me I need to get the head CC'd. What does that mean. Sorry for all the questions, newb to rebuilding an engine.

Thanks alot IJ you are the man!

Someone said it was 235.00 mm from the middle of the crank or something like that, what type of measurement tools would I need to measure both the head and block?

How would I measure how much has been taken off my block and head? I searched through the TSRM and can't find the procedue.

Under side of the head in #3 looks like all the others look, normal carbon buildup.

Why is that?

Detonation...I was tired last night and just figured I would see a blatant crack in the ringlands, guess detonation likes to hide :). I found two hairline cracks this morning under the second piston ring from the top. I will try to take some pics of the cylinder wall.

Top of Piston...

Top of the piston looks normal, I should probably just take the block and piston to an engine builder and see what he has to say. This engine is under warranty under ATK and I need to know whether it was my fault or theirs. If it was in fact their fault I can send the longblock back and they...

Better Pics, Hope these help.

Yes my fingernail will get stuck in some of the larger marks.

Well I pulled my engine today and pulled the head off. For now I am just looking at cylinder 3 since the compression was 60 psi and all other cylinder were at 180 except for cyl 6 which was at 155 dry 175 wet. I also did a leakdown test and the normal cylinders were at 15% leakdown, number 3...

I really don't think it is that bad pulling just the engine, this is how I pulled it before, installation is a little harder but last time it took me two tries before I got it to slide on the input shaft. I gotta pull the head off and inspect cylinder 3. It is under warranty through ATK, so...

Well I finished prepping everything to pull the engine and pulled it right out. Everything went smooth. Now I gotta put the engine on the stand and tear it apart to see what is causing low compression in cylinder 3. Here are some pics:

Well I got a new engine stand today since I don't want to borrow someones for however long it takes to rebuild or swap parts over to a new longblock if ATK warranties it. I have all the prep work done before I pull the motor, I honestly have to say it went 100 times easier then when I pulled it...

Did a little more work on prepping for engine removal today. Progress Pics: DP unbolted from Elbow: Fuel Feed Line Seperated: Note: You should use flare ended wrenches to remove the fuel lines. I didn't have metric wrenches but a 1/2 inch flare wrench and 3/4 flare wrench worked...

These were the compression test results: Cyl 1: 180 Cyl 2: 180 Cyl 3: 60 Cyl 4:180 Cyl 5: 180 Cyl 6: 155 After the first test I tested all cylinders again and came up with the same results. I tested cylinders 3 and 6 again after pouring a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder. The results...

When I took off the oil cap last time while it was running there was a small amount of smoke coming out. So I guess it probably is the rings.

Block tester, if you read my previous post it explains the info. Later.

You can try to do a block test. Your local autoparts store should have a block tester. It looks like a turkey baster and you fill it up with a special blue liquid. Get the car up to temp and then take off your radiator cap. Then you will pump the bulb on top of the tool and it draws up air...