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I have been fiddling with this damn thing for a week. I dont have a reference on the CPS so i dont know if the TDC is on compression or exhaust. Is there an easy way to find out?

Thats exactly what i did and found TDC. I assume at TDC the rotor btton needs to line up directly with #1 plug wire connector. I think i fouled all my plugs out so Im off to get half a dozen cheapies. thanks fo rthe help I will keep posting till its running.

Which mark? there are 2 on the crank pulley 180' off from each other.

Oh man, i may have the timing off 180' How many damn marks are there on the crank pulley? I had everything lined up to what I thought was TDC and a mark aligned to "0" but I just turned the crank 180' and there are 2 more marks. one on the oter rim of the pulley and 1 on the inner.

I guess its the rear one. Its is the rear most one with the brown connector. not the fuel pressure one or the EGR one but the one that controls the vacuum port on the intake manifold plenum.

The problem in the teardown were stuck valves. The engine will start now but only for 2-5 seconds. It will start right up every time (CPS was off, thanks) but I cannot keep it running. Either its cutting fuel or cutting ignition. Unless its flooding out.

I broke my VSV connector for the intake plenum on the manifold. Can I simply hook the line up to direct vacuum and bypass the VSV?

I just put the damn thing back together and cant seem to get it to start. I am about 90% sure i have everything back together :) I have a loose connection on a sensor that is located on the intake side of the block. Uses a green connector on a brown wire. Also there is 1 vacuum line that runs...

Springs are fine. i just soaked the head in a bunch of penetrant and manually opened and closed the stuck valves a dozen or so times and everything is back in order. Im puttin the head back on today , wish me luck

BHG and Valves stuck open.

Well I was about 99% sure it was the head gasket due to #1 and #2 giving no compression but it turns out that 1 of the exhaust valves on #1 is stuck open and both on Clyinder #2. There was also one open on #3 but after I tapped it in and loaded it down with some penetrant it appears to work as...

Could a bad TPS cause the car not to start? I am getting spark and fuel (to the rail at least) I guess I will have to pull the injectors and soak them for a few hours.

It was the fuel pump, problem is fixed please close this thread.

Damn, it seems like it wants to start. When its turning over you can hear it fire about 1 out of 10 revolutions. I'm going to pull the TB today and pull all the plugs and bast some compressed air in there , maybe theres some water on top of the pistons.

Ok, now I am definitely getting spark at the plug. Its daytime so I cant tell how strong it is but hopefuly strong enough to start the car. How can i check the injectors?

ok, I am definitely getting fuel, no question. I pulled the cold start and it was under good pressure. I did the spark test with the actual plug an dno spark at all that way. Does that mean the coil isnt charging the plug enough to fire ? Wassup

I did a diagnostic check with T and E1 and the CEL blinks consistently. It simply doesnt stop. No codes just a repetitive blink

I just picked up an 86.5 Supra and I cant get the damn thing to start. The guy said it needed a fuel pump which I can definitely say that it did and I replaced it with a denso this morning. I replaced the distrubitor cap and rotor, flushed the gas tank, put in 5 gallons of premium. Changed the...

Cool I picked up a Denso. My MKII had the fuel pump go on it. I will put it in tomorrow but I dont think thats why its not starting. I will post a new thread after its installed.

So you dont think the fuel pump is shorted out?