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I agree. What do you think IJ? :1zhelp:

Hi all! I just dropped off my 7M at the machine shop, with a complete list of tolerances from the TSRM. I've read most of the guides on here regarding machining and rebuilding these things, so I brought it to the machinist's attention that I want to build the engine "tight". But then I got to...

Thanks for the replies! And there was some good stuff in that vid, Franco. How big of a pain is it to get the rings in with a sharp edge like that?

Hey guys! My machinist asked me if I want him to chamfer (bevel) the edges of the cylinder...he says he does it on almost all the blocks they machine and that it helps make assembly easier. He then showed me a BMW Z4 block making around 1000 hp that the customer requested that they leave sharp...

I've had them pulled out for a while, but I finally finish sandblasting my rear subframe and arms, and front LCA's. I'll be painting them tomorrow morning...Por-15 black. :naughty:

update? :cry:

The question I had about the loose sleeves was resolved here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?183241-RonnieK-Front-Subframe-Bushings-Sleeve-Play The play isn't a problem...the subframe compresses the bushing causing the sleeve to fit snugly. Can't wait to install them!

The rears don't need spacers, they're a two piece design. As for the front set, Ronnie recommends installing them with the stock spacers, or "top hats".

Hi Ronnie! Thanks for the response. I had suspected that the bushing would compress when installed in the frame; I just wanted to make sure. You do top-notch work, and the bushings themselves look great.

Hey SM. I bought a set of RonnieK front and rear subframe bushings a while back, and the sleeves in the rear set fit snugly, whereas the sleeves in the front set are rather loose. It would seem that this could cause handling problems. Is this how the set was intended to be, or should I be...

I bought a set of front and rear subframe bushings a while back, and the sleeves in the rear set fit snugly, whereas the sleeves in the front set are rather loose. It would seem that this could cause handling problems. Is this how the set was intended to be, or should I be concerned...

Good to know! Thanks.

I'm about 90% sure, but I just wanted to verify: are the rear camber arms symmetrical? As in, can I use a right arm on the left side? I have two good right camber arms they appear to be exactly the same as the left ones. Is this correct? Thanks!

Oh I see! Thanks for pointing that out.

Hey guys! I see that the front whiteline swaybar set comes with a set of endlinks...I was wondering how they hold up and perform vs. stock vs. heavy duty stainless ones. How crazy do you have to drive to break one? Also, does anyone have some insight regarding BIC vs Beech Performance...

Good thread...thank you.

Do you have stock bushings or poly?

Good to know.

I could be wrong, but I don't think TRD makes a real one that style. I was in a similar search for a TRD knob (the leather one) and looked through all the Ebay knock-offs. After some searching I found this one and bought it...

I pulled up my carpet and the factory sound deadening looks pretty hard. I hear the MK3 was a decently quiet car from the factory, but things can change in 25 years. Those of you who have ripped it out to save weight, how much of a difference was there? And how much quieter would the car be...