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lol yeah thats kinda why i was wanting some input. i have rebuilt motors, trannys, and rear ends but never had a turbo apart. i didn't know if it was as simple as unbolt replace seals and put back together or if i should go ahead and fork out the money and quit bitchin

so i don't know a whole lot about the actual components inside a turbo. my turbo is still spooling fine with minimal shaft play but i think the oil seals are going out as i am blowing oil into the exhaust and intercooler piping. my question is would it be a good idea for me to buy a kit to...

when i did my auto to 5speed i used a parts car, but if you gotta buy new stuff check out driftmotion. i know they had complete pedal sets, slave cylinders, master cylinders, throw out bearing, and lines on there.

i dont remember for sure, but i think i was able to use the throttle cable that was already in the car. as long as its long enough, the cable can be adjusted at the trottle linkage. i got my intercooler and piping off craigslist from a car that was being parted out for like $20. check the...

i recently finished my swap. if you're using the stock intercooler it will mount with no problems. the nice thing is that all the body's had the same holes for mounting. i also swapped my auto for a manual and the holes where there for all the master cylinder parts and clutch. i used the stock...

i'm pretty sure i found my problem. i reset the timing, and it wasn't very far off, about 8 degrees btdc. so i actually used my noodle a bit. spark was good, no boost leak. i thought the fuel situation should be fine since the previous owner had put a fuel pump and filter on right before i...

thanks. i am a complete dumbass lol. i forgot that i had taken out the cps when i cleaned it. all i did when i rechecked my timing was checked to make sure my belt hadn't slipped. i'll get the ol light out tomorrow and check it the right way. i wouldn't doubt that it's pretty screwed

i rechecked the timing, and everything seems to be fine. with cylinder 1 at tdc both marks on the cams line up perfect. i used the procedure from alldata to replace the belt. i guess this is what i get for doing too many things at once. i'm going to double check that i have the right plugs, and...

i have an autometer boost gauge. the car was originally n/a and i swapped it. i think i found my problem, the plugs seem to be fowled out. now i just have to figure out why. there is a white crust on them which correct me if i'm wrong, but doesn't that usually mean the plug has gotten too hot...

i checked the wastegate, not the problem. i ran another boost leak test and this time i did find a small leak on my bov where i didn't tighten down my set screw. idk if it was like that before or not. took the car out for another test drive and same deal. i did notice when i got back the engine...

that sounds like a good idea, i didn't think about clamping the line off

i'm not "grasping at straws". i have stated what i thought, and what i have done. the reason for me posting is to get other peoples opinions and where i should go from here. if i knew exactly what my diagnosis was, i would have no need to ask any questions. and i didn't say my compressor housing...

i replaced all the clamps on the intercooler piping, still the same problem. when i did my test for a boost leak i did it two different ways 1. i disconnected the accordian and blew straight through the turbo with the pcv lines capped 2. blowing through the same way but i disconnected the charge...

just checked, no shims on the wastegate. one thing i did notice though, i am missing some clamps on the pcv lines. i know when i ran the boost leak test i had to cap off the lines so air wouldn't come through. if the lines aren't clamped and not air tight, could this cause my problems. i guess...

okay, so i replaced the vacuum line going to the actuator, not my problem. i doubt the actuator is shimmed because i did not have this problem when it was colder weather and if i'm not mistaken the more dense air would have made me hit fuel cut earlier. when i get a chance i'll check to see that...

just so you know, you probably won't be able to just throw a full turbo cluster in if you didn't swap the dash harness. the plugs on the back of the na and turbo clusters are wired different. it's easiest to grab a used tach off a turbo and put it in your na cluster....two or three screws, super...

thanks for the help guys....after i looked at the wastegate it does look like the vacuum line may be binded a bit. i'll replace it later today and report back.

i cant really change my boost, because the motor is stock. no boost controller or anything. i doubt its the cps, because when i pull a plug wire, i'm getting spark well. i don't know if this helps, but i can hear the turbo start spooing around 1500rpm which seems a bit early to be spooling so...

okay, so i figured out my no spark, figured out my vacuum leaks, and now a new problem. if i give the car half throttle, i can run up to redline no problems, and boost will go to around 5lbs. now at full throttle no matter what gear the boost jumps to anywhere between 9 and 12 lbs the car goes...

if you didn't have the heater on when you topped it off, the heater core and lines going to it would not have any fluid in it and that would cause a good size air pocket. the best thing to do would be make sure you have all the air out, and then keep an eye on it for a while. i would doubt that...