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Hey Guys, I have an '88 Supra Turbo Targa with almost all of the options including the factory installed alarm (if that's not standard). Well the problem is that the alarm randomly goes off. I lock the car and it will be quiet for a while but then at some unsuspecting moment the alarm starts...

I checked the connector. when it was messed up my car wouldn't go above idle. Then I fixed it and it would but not well. Replaced the AFM and it works fine until I actually push the gas or go above about 2500 rpms.

The light went off and came back on after I drove it. Will the light go off if the code is still there?

I was getting code 32 and replaced the AFM and did not have the code anymore. I went for a test drive and it was fine until I pushed the gas. It came back as soon as I got into enough for a shift and started acting like it wanted to choke again. I am not sure what to do.

I have rewired my knock sensors with 100 percent shielded cable and replace both knock sensors with brand new. I am still getting the code and do not know what to do to fix it.

Fixed all codes including the code 52 today. The only code left is the afm code 32. I checked the afm with a multimeter and it's bad. Well not bad but completely mutilated. It does not check out with any resistances on any leads.

I have changed the TPS 3 times to see and they all have the same problem the don't connect right. Where could I find test points to see if it is a wiring issue?

Well was hoping it wouldn't be the knock sensors. It is a GE block so there is only one sensor and two plugs. Is there a way I can bypass it with a resistor to "trick" it into thinking it's ok.

The timing is still reading at 10 advanced.

Because it is giving symptoms of over boosting too. Whenever it comes into boost it just cuts of and after about a second comes back in and starts going again. I didn't think that the TPS would cause it to fuel cut under boost mainly.

I'm hitting fuel cut on my car. It is jumpy then cuts off whenever I put my foot down more than 1/4 way or go over 3000 rpm's. If I don't try to push though it takes off as if it is floored. It also has hesitation in the throttle. It likes to act like it wants to die first then take off. Mods...

If you have a different idea and I'm wrong please tell me. This is my only vehicle and I need it going.

I temporarily put it on a switch to see the differences. I can go down a hill and switch it off, and when I cut it back on it builds pressure fine. and when it is could outside it runs better even thought the engine is at the same temperature. The fuel pump and running at full blast the whole...

It does runs when it is supposed to and the codes I get are for TPS and Knock malfunction. The famous code 52. That is another story though. Throttle positioning seems to work fine and the knock sensors are rewired. The codes have been reset and are still consistant. Although neither of them has...

I've been looking for one in the SouthEast but I can't travel far in mine right now. Sorry.

I think it is the Denso pump and yes. I replaced the Pump, filter, had injectors clean, and cleaned the lines I could get to .

Name: Greg Palmore Year of Car: 1988 Contact Info: 2516105117 or g.palmorejr@yahoo.com City: Mobile, Alabama Hobbies: Wait a second I'm working on it. Uprgrades: 7mGTE bored .040 Upgraded stock turbo FMIC with 2.5 inch piping 3 inch exhaust AFPR Lexus AFM The biggest part of this...

I drive an MA70 Turbo and I had a quick question. Does anyone else have a problem with their fuel pump overheating and losing pressure constantly? My stick replacement pump does this. I understand it is having a hard time keeping up with the fuel demands of the engine (which has been modified)...